If you’re a car guy, you’d probably heard of Motul. Yup, it’s that French high-performance automotive lubricant company that’s often associated with racing, be it bikes or cars.

Well, it looks like they have shifted gears into the grooming space, bringing a lineup of products designed to make car care easier, more effective, and surprisingly eco-friendly. Let’s take a closer look at what the premium brand has to offer.

A Debut Tailored for Singapore

Motul’s Car Care Range first made waves in Europe and the USA in 2022, impressing enthusiasts with its innovative formulas and results-driven performance. After fine-tuning the lineup to suit Asia Pacific’s unique needs and weather conditions, the brand launched in Singapore in October 2024.

Whether battling Singapore’s unpredictable rains, harsh sun, or day-to-day urban grime, these products have been crafted to handle it all with ease.

Standing Out in a Crowded Market

Let’s be honest—the car grooming industry is saturated with products promising miracles. So, what’s different about Motul?

Well, sustainability actually.

“Sustainability is at the heart of the Motul Car Care Range. Each product is formulated with over 60% biodegradable ingredients, pH-balanced for safety, and free from harmful chemicals, ensuring they are as kind to the environment as they are effective. Our commitment extends to our packaging, which incorporates up to 50% recycled plastic, further reducing our environmental footprint. The eco-friendly label on every product is a testament to Motul’s pledge to deliver safer, more sustainable solutions for our customers and the planet,” says Carlo Savoca, Chief Marketing Officer – Motul Asia Pacific.

Which if you think about it, it makes perfect sense, since car grooming products have never been known to contain the most biodegradable materials, and there must be a way to take that tech-forward in these times.

But before we get to carried away with the tree-hugging spiel, let’s not forget that Motul has decades of lubricant expertise and a solid reputation among car enthusiasts and professionals alike.

So their new Car Care Range definitely promises to perform too! Currently, they are divided into three main categories:

• Protection: Think paintwork that gleams like it just rolled out of the showroom.
• Exterior Clean: Products designed to tackle micro-abrasive particles and keep grime at bay.
• Interior Clean: Leather and interior cleaners that are oil-free, odourless, and made to maintain that new-car feel.

OK, So Why Is Motul Moving Beyond Lubricants?

According to the brand, it’s a natural evolution.

“Motul understands that car care is closely linked to performance, and it’s about ensuring every drive is a pleasure. By listening to our customers, we recognised the need to expand our portfolio and offer a complete solution for vehicle maintenance, ” Savoca adds.

So, while its lubricants keep engines running smoothly, the new Car Care Range enhances every other aspect of vehicle ownership, from aesthetics to comfort.

Pride for your car, inside and out.

But Can Eco-Friendly Car Care Still Perform?

We’ll be testing out some samples soon and will share our thoughts. In the meantime, we recognise that in a world that’s finally waking up to environmental responsibility, Motul’s decision to prioritise sustainability can’t be faulted.

But while their Car Care Range is pH-balanced, safe to use, and kind to the planet, we certainly do hope that they deliver on the promise of pro-level results with minimal effort. As car detailing buffs ourselves, we can’t wait.

First impressions from the mint-scented car shampoo are already kind of ‘fresh’ (we’ve never encountered car shampoo that smells like Mentos before) and unique!

Where Can You Get It?

Motul’s Car Care Range is available online, so you won’t have to hunt it down in stores. You can find it on Autobacs Singapore, Steve & Leif’s e-commerce pages, and Shopee. It’s all about convenience; shop from the comfort of your home and deliver what you need directly to your doorstep.

The Final Word

Motul’s Car Care Range offers a chance to take vehicle maintenance to the next level without harming the environment, for drivers who value quality and innovation.

So, whether you’re a meticulous detailer or someone who wants their car to feel showroom-fresh, it looks like Motul’s got you covered.

In a market saturated with options, Motul is trying to set a new standard for car care.

If you’re ready to buff up your detailing routine and achieve a showroom-worthy finish, maybe give it a shot and let us know your findings!

Read more automotive news at AutoApp, or check out our latest videos on Ignition Labs TV and on TikTok!

While factory-equipped mats do the job, they often wear out faster than we’d like or are a hassle to maintain after some time.

This is where brands like ENZO come into the picture.

ENZO is a Singaporean brand changing the world of car mats with their premium, custom-fitted solutions. They’re built to last and tailored to the exact measurements of your car. 

Our CEO, Joel, recently got his car fitted, and well, the results speak for themselves. “Having fitted them in my 2010 Honda Odyssey, I must say that the car mats sit snugly around every contour of my car, over the floor panels across the three rows of seats, and even the boot.”

Why ENZO Mats Stand Out

So what makes ENZO’s mats so special? It all starts with the material.

They use high-quality thermoplastic vulcanisates (TPV). In simpler terms, TPV combines the best qualities into one robust package, offering unmatched durability, flexibility, and resistance to odours, even after extensive use.

Concerned about the environment? ENZO’s mats are REACH compliant, ensuring they’re toxic-free and made from environmentally sustainable practices.

Safety is another area where ENZO excels. These mats come with dual anti-slip properties and anti-bacterial technologies from Japan. Perfect if you have young children or elderly folks in the household.

“The anti-slip feature is the best I’ve ever experienced in my 25 years of driving and over 20 cars I’ve owned – the mats just stay in place perfectly. The honeycomb design also looks really good.”

For added peace of mind, ENZO’s materials are certified by the Société Générale de Surveillance (SGS), the global leader in quality testing and certification.

Practical And Easy To Maintain

ENZO mats are designed with practicality in mind.

They feature dirt traps to keep external elements at bay, and their waterproof properties mean that spilt liquids and mud won’t seep through.

Cleaning them is a breeze too; just rinse them with water and let them dry for about 15 minutes in good weather. “Cleaning is much easier as all the dirt just falls off easily. Vacuuming also is a cinch as the debris does not get trapped in the ‘hairy’ material of my previous “3M”-styled mats.”

Bet your own car mats aren’t as easy to clean, right?

Plus Some Added Peace Of Mind

ENZO also offers a 2-year (ENZO Care) or lifetime (ENZO Prime) warranty on their car mats*, and free delivery if you prefer them brought right to your doorstep. The car mats we tested were of the ENZO Care variety.

With options for thousands of vehicle models, anything from Toyotas to Ferraris, we’re certain ENZO has a robust solution for your car.

Drop by their shop to learn more or visit their website to place an order from the comfort of your home. Additionally, you can quote LAB15 for an instant 15% discount, no minimum spending required!

Don’t take our word for it, try it yourself. Feel the difference with ENZO car mats today.

ENZO Singapore
50 Serangoon North Ave 4, #02-20 First Centre, Singapore 555856

*Terms & Conditions apply

Read more automotive news at AutoApp, check out more car Tips & Tricks, or check out our latest videos on Ignition Labs TV and on TikTok!

For the purpose of this article, we’ll focus on an internal combustion engine (ICE) vehicle’s 12-volt battery. This battery can be found under the bonnet in the engine compartment, or in a specific purpose-built recess in the boot.

There are some rare occasions where the 12-volt battery can be found under one of the seats in a multipurpose vehicle (MPV) or in the footwell of some supercars. There are also some higher-end vehicles which may feature two batteries instead of just one, with one usually smaller than the other.

In any case, the main function of the 12-volt battery is to provide cranking power to start your vehicle’s ICE. Its other function is to provide protection against voltage spikes and surges to the vehicle’s various computers.

With the engine running, the alternator provides electricity to the various components of a vehicle as well as charging the battery. When the engine is not running, power to run lights, the infotainment system, alarm and security system, and stereo comes from the battery.

This is why it is not a good idea to run these items for too long with the engine off, since the alternator, which is driven off the engine, is not spinning and charging the battery.

Types of Batteries

We’ll focus on the four main types of batteries that are readily available in the market. First, the two wet-cell types.

Flooded Lead Acid Battery (FLAB)

This is the oldest type, is very common and the most affordable. Most FLABs are typically comprised of six cells of lead-antimony plates, which are immersed (flooded) in a sulphuric-acid-and-water electrolyte solution.

Occasional maintenance is required for this type of battery, by checking and topping off each cell to the required level with battery water. FLABs must also be installed vertically to prevent the electrolyte from spilling.

If discharged to below 50% of the rated capacity, FLABs will experience significant shortening of their lifespan.

Enhanced Flooded Battery (EFB)

The EFB is also a common battery type. If you’ve heard of mechanics and fellow car owners talking about maintenance-free batteries, they’re likely referring to the EFB. EFBs still contain an electrolyte solution and cells of lead-antimony plates, but they’re all sealed within the outer plastic housing.

This battery type was introduced to provide more lifespan than its older FLAB ancestor. However, just like its ancestor, EFBs should be mounted vertically and should not be discharged to below 50% of their rated capacity, lest their lifespan is significantly shortened.

Next are the two common types of dry cell batteries.

Gel Cell Battery

Gel cell batteries, or gel batteries, were developed as a spill-proof version of the FLABs and EFBs. Instead of lead-antimony plates, gel batteries feature calcium-lead plates. Silica is added to the electrolyte to turn it into a spill-proof gel.

Gel batteries can be horizontally-mounted if need be, and are more shock- and vibration-resistant than FLABs and EFBs.

Gel batteries are also better suited to deep-discharge applications such as vehicles with very high-powered custom in-car audio installations, and will not wear out as quickly as FLABs and EFBs.

Absorbent Glass Mat Battery (AGM)

Although AGMs are referred to as dry-cell batteries, they’re actually quite similar to the wet-cell types. A fibreglass separator, or glass mat, absorbs the electrolyte and holds it in place.

AGMs can charge up to five times faster than their wet-cell counterparts. They’re also capable of being deep-discharged like the gel batteries. Naturally, AGMs are the most expensive battery-type of the four.

Modern cars with auto engine start/stop technology and mild-hybrid vehicles that recover energy from braking use AGM batteries. For such vehicles, replacement batteries must be of the AGM type, and the other three types should not be used.

One More Dry-Cell Battery

We haven’t forgotten lithium-based 12-volt batteries. These offer much stronger engine cranking and can charge up much quicker than FLABs and EFBs. They’re also much lighter than most other battery-types, but are much more expensive and are primarily used in weight-reduction scenarios, such as in motorcycles and motorsport applications.

Unless you know what you’re doing, there’s no need to spring for lithium-based batteries.

Replacing Batteries

The important thing to look out for is that the replacement battery must be of the same capacity as the outgoing one, meaning it needs to have the same or better cranking amps (CA) or cold cranking amps (CCA).

Cars with engine start/stop technology and/or mild hybrid drivetrains require AGM batteries, and only these should be used for replacement. Older vehicles which use FLABs or EFBs can be replaced with FLABs, EFBs and gel batteries, or even AGM if the vehicle owner is feeling generous.

Something else we’ve noticed is that regardless of battery type, the change interval in Singapore is around two years. This is likely due to our climate, driving conditions and the increased popularity of dashcams.

Yes, dashcams. A dashcam that is set to operate most if not all the time when parked can contribute to shorter battery lifespan, so keep that in mind when choosing your dashcam’s ‘parking’ setting.

Gel cell or AGM batteries would be more suitable for vehicles with permanently-wired dashcams, or you could choose to have an accessory battery pack installed specially for this purpose..

I’ve got a dead battery HALP!

Many of us have faced this dreaded scenario before.

We go to our car, unlock it, get in the driver’s seat and try to start the engine, only to be met with a solitary click or a series of clicks from the starter motor and nothing else. Sometimes, the engine may crank very slowly but doesn’t fire into life.

Here are two methods of jump-starting a vehicle with a dead battery.

1. Two-Vehicle Jump-Start

The first item needed for a two-vehicle jump-start is a pair of jumper cables. Be aware though, not all jumper cables are created equal. See the two images below:

Always use a quality set of jumper cables with thicker-gauge wires. The reason for this is because starting an ICE requires high power draw. A thinner-gauge set of jumper cables may not be able to deliver all the cranking amps needed at best, or start to overheat and present a fire hazard at worst.

Now that a suitable set of jumper cables that are sufficiently long have been obtained, get a friend to help. Doing this as a tag-team makes things so much easier.

First, drive the boosting vehicle to the one with the dead battery so that the batteries or manufacturer-specified jump-points are in relatively close proximity. In most cases, this would mean engine-bay to engine-bay.

Then, get your helper to hold one end of the jumper cables up and apart from each other.

This is important because the jaws of the jumper cable should never come into contact with each other, lest a short circuit is created that can potentially fry sensitive electronics and also start a fire.

Get the helper to connect the red cable’s jaw-end to the positive battery terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Then do the same on the boosting vehicle.

With this done, the helper will connect the other jaw-end of the black cable to a suitable body grounding point on the vehicle with the dead battery. Usually this would be a bolt on the strut tower, the grounding point on the engine itself, or the negative terminal of a manufacturer-specified jump point.

Finally, proceed to connect the the jaw-end of the black cable to the negative battery terminal of the boosting car. Both vehicles are now electrically connected to each other. We can proceed to jump-start the vehicle with the dead battery.

Get the helper to sit in the driver’s seat of the boosting vehicle, start the engine, and then bring engine revolutions up to 2,500rpm. This will allow the boosting vehicle’s alternator to charge at its rated capacity and help the jump-starting process.

Finally, jump into the dead-battery vehicle’s driver seat, turn off all unnecessary ancillaries such as the aircon, headlights and stereo, then proceed to start the engine. It should fire into life normally. If it doesn’t, try one more time and then call for a tow truck if the engine doesn’t start the second time.

With the distressed vehicle’s engine now running, disconnect the jumper cables after a couple of minutes in this order.

• negative on dead-battery vehicle
• negative on boosting vehicle
• positive on boosting vehicle
• positive on dead-battery vehicle

Remember never to allow any jumper cable-ends to contact each other or the bodywork of either vehicle during this procedure.

The dead-battery vehicle can now be driven to a workshop for a battery health check and replacement if needed.

2. Jump-Pack Jump-Start

Jump-packs come in all shapes and sizes, with the more powerful ones holding a bank of lithium cells. There are even supercapacitor-based jump packs that can charge their built-in supercapacitors with a dead battery’s remaining charge, and discharge all of that energy in a quick burst to start an engine.

Using a jump-pack is pretty simple. Connect the black cable to the negative battery terminal, and the red to the positive of the distressed vehicle. Remember not to touch any part of the bodywork with the jaw-ends.

Then turn on the jump-pack, start the engine normally, and disconnect the jump-pack.

Seven Tips to Extend Your Vehicle’s Battery Lifespan

The big question at this point is how should one care for their vehicle’s battery? Here are seven tips.

1. Avoid prolonged periods of inactivity

Modern vehicles have computers that monitor various aspects and functions. When parked, most of these computers go to sleep, but one or two may awaken at select periods to monitor certain things, like the security system. This, naturally, puts a small load on the vehicle’s battery and causes it to discharge.

If a vehicle is to be parked for more than a week, it is advisable to connect a good quality trickle charger to the battery to keep it charged up for the next engine start and commute. Trickle chargers of higher quality are also able to desulphate lead sulphate crystals built up on the battery plates to improve the battery’s health.

If you live in a HDB flat or condominium where power outlets are not available, consider disconnecting the negative terminal lead instead to cut off any electrical draw.

2. Avoid too many short journeys

Along with not letting a vehicle sit parked for too long, short start-stop journeys put a huge strain on the electrical system since the alternator would not have sufficient time to charge the battery up.

Modern vehicles also feature auto start-stop technology which kills an engine when stopped in traffic and starts it up again when one is ready to move off. Auto start-stop is an even larger strain, and combined with short journeys actually accelerate battery drain.

If your typical commute involves short journeys of five kilometres or less, or a purely street-based commute with multiple traffic-light stops , consider taking a longer drive of around 50-100km at least once a week, if not twice.

Simply jump on the nearest highway and drive around the island until you circumnavigate your way back home, or go visit a relative or friend who lives further away. This will allow the alternator to charge more optimally and the battery itself won’t be subject to heavier loads during a longer distance cruise.

3. Unplug cables and accessories

Parasitic draw is a large but often hidden cause of battery drain. Mechanics have encountered situations where a brand new battery goes flat within a month, and the parasitic-draw issue was painstakingly tracked down to an errant electrical accessory that continued to stay powered on while the vehicle was turned off.

Consider disconnecting your USB cables and devices, and any other accessories that are powered by the vehicle’s electrical system before locking and leaving your vehicle.

Which then brings us to the next tip…

4. Turn off lights when locking and leaving your vehicle

“We’ve all done it before – leaving the interior light(s) on after looking for something in your cabin or the headlights on after parking your car after a driving on a rainy day.

These lights, when left on overnight, will cause a battery drain and much frustration when the vehicle fails to start the next time.

A good habit is to always turn around when leaving to check your car if lights have been left on, and also admire how well you’ve parked.”

– Kenneth Yeo, General Manager, AutoApp

5. Keep the terminals clean

Another source of poor electrical performance in a vehicle is corroded battery terminals. We’re talking about the unsightly green powdery stuff that builds up on the terminals of FLABs and EFBs, and can cause connection issues.

A DIY remedy is to pour some hot water on the terminals to flush away the build-up. A small copper brush and degreaser can also help with cleaning duties.

Once the terminals are clean, apply a thin layer of automotive grease to the terminals to reduce the incidence of such corrosion. Also inspect the terminals once a month and during each service.

6. Have the battery tested periodically

When booking a service, you should request to have your vehicle’s battery health ascertained. This involves connecting a tester to the terminals and applying a load to see if the battery’s rated CA or CCA matches what the tester is seeing, as well as its state of charge.

Readings that are significantly lower could be indicative of a battery on its last legs.

7. Do not wait to replace an ageing battery

A tell-tale sign of a dying battery is a noticeably longer duration to crank the engine over into life. Engine cranking would also be slower and feel more strained.

Another, for more modern cars with auto start-stop technology, is the engine remains running while an advisory warning pops up on the instrument cluster saying something to the effect of “Auto Start/Stop Unavailable – Battery Charge” or similar.

One more is a bunch of unrelated error messages and codes that get thrown up once the vehicle is started.

All of these point to a battery that’s on its way out.

Since no one likes to be left stranded with a dead vehicle, have your vehicle’s battery tested periodically and changed around every two years, or when the tested CA is significantly lower than the battery’s rated CA, whichever happens first.

Overwhelmed?

Well, don’t be.

AutoApp can handle all of your car’s servicing needs and keep you updated along the way. Battery health checks can be scheduled together with your regular servicing, and we’ll even remind you when it’s due for replacement.

Our panel of partner workshops are carefully curated to offer the most optimal and timely servicing solutions for your car. We’ll also remind you when your next servicing is due so that you don’t have to worry about getting it done on time.

Other safety-related and maintenance checks such as the wear of brakes and tyres are checked during servicing with Autoapp.

Leave the hassle to us. Let go, let AutoApp.

Download the app here.

Click here for enquiries.

Read more automotive news at AutoApp, or check out our latest videos on Ignition Labs TV!

You’re driving along, just minding your own business and probably rocking out to your favourite tunes in your vehicle when suddenly, a loud “CRACK!” is heard and you see the effect of “stone meets windscreen at high velocity.” The sinking feeling in your chest and gut is palpable. Your mind starts racing.

“OH MY GAWD!!! My windscreen is cracked! What do I do now?” Well, fret not and read on.

Chipped vs. Cracked

In the best-case scenario, your vehicle’s windscreen may merely be chipped. In this case, count yourself lucky for in most instances, it can be repaired instead of needing to replace the entire glass panel. However, there are caveats.

First, the chip needs to be located at least 7cm from the edge of the windscreen. Next, if the chip is in the driver’s line of sight, it needs to be 10mm or less in size to be deemed repairable. Otherwise, chips of up to 25mm may be repairable if they’re not in the driver’s line of sight. All of this can be professionally assessed.

Once ascertained that the chip can indeed be repaired, the process starts with a potentially gut-wrenching but professionally executed micro-drilling of the chip in preparation for the next step.

Next, a special resin is injected into the drilled chip, and allowed to cure over a short period of time.

The repaired chip will then be virtually indistinguishable from the rest of the glass on the windscreen and life can proceed as normal. So, the question then is when should a chipped windscreen ideally be repaired? The answer is “as soon as possible.”

While a vehicle is in motion, the windscreen can and does flex in minute amounts, and this flex can cause an unattended chip to expand further and crack, thereby rendering repair out of the equation and replacement a necessity.

Replacement Windscreens

Assuming that the windscreen has been professionally assessed to require a replacement, it is now time to remove the old windscreen. This requires the trim around the glass to be removed, and the polyurethane adhesive beneath the glass to be carefully and methodically cut using specialised tools. Then, the old cracked windscreen can be removed.

Next, before the new windscreen goes on, some clean-up and prep work to the frame and dashboard needs to be undertaken. Any untreated corrosion or debris on the frame where the glass will sit will eventually allow water to seep through, so all of this needs to be thoroughly addressed at this stage.

A new layer of polyurethane adhesive is then laid down on the frame and the new windscreen is then carefully lifted and offered up to the vehicle. Once the installation is deemed correct, any previously-removed trim around the frame is reinstalled.

After letting it sit for a while for the adhesive to set, the windscreen is then tested for water-tightness, after which, it can be driven away. However, it will take a while longer for the adhesive to fully cure, so avoid washing the vehicle for a couple of days.

Original vs. Aftermarket Windscreens

Not all windscreens are created equal. Original windscreens can cost a pretty penny, while aftermarket windscreens may offer a more cost-effective option, possibly with the omission of a feature or two that the original had. Which option to go for will primarily come down to budget.

If your insurance policy has windscreen-replacement coverage, then the verbiage of the policy needs to be studied as to whether original replacements can be done or aftermarket windscreens are specified. If an out-of-pocket payment for the entire cost of the replacement windscreen is needed, then the aftermarket option may be more attractive depending on the situation.

Got some windscreen issues? AutoApp can help to take the hassle out of the process of windscreen repairs and replacements. Our experienced team will work with you and our panel of windscreen experts to assess the damage, study your vehicle’s insurance policy coverage and recommend the best option(s) available.

Better yet, you don’t have to leave home to get the fix done, since our Service Ambassadors will pick up your vehicle, bring it to get the repair or replacement done, and return it to you. So you can sit back, relax, and let us do the work.

Drop us a message to get the hassle-free process started!

Read more automotive news at AutoApp, or check out our latest videos on Ignition Labs TV!

Modern cars are generally well-built and durable, thanks to improvements in manufacturing technology. However, your car is only as good as its weakest link, or part in this case. Over time, wear and tear can cause various parts of a car to fail, and this can introduce strange noises while operating your vehicle.

Unusual sounds typically signal the need to replace a part. Should the issue persist, it might snowball into more severe problems. Here are some common sounds you might hear:

Engine having knocking or tapping noises

If your car’s engine is making weird knocking or pinging sounds, it could mean that the wrong fuel was used in your car. Pumping in incorrect octane levels for your car is the most common cause of this.

Thankfully, this isn’t a serious issue. Just make sure you give your car the right fuel next time you hit the pumps.

On the flip side, if you hear distinct tapping sounds coming from your engine, this could mean that your engine oil levels are low. Continue running without sufficient oil, and your engine will self-destruct down the line, so make sure it’s topped up at all times. 

It’s good practice to periodically check your oil levels too, as this can help spot potential oil leaks in your car.

Loud noises from the exhaust

Unlike the ever-annoying pop-and-bang engine tunes, a loud “boom” noise produced from your car’s exhaust could be due to a faulty catalytic converter. 

Best to get this one checked as soon as possible, as faulty catalytic converters can even cause fires if not addressed.

Metal grinding noises when braking

This is usually a tell-tale sign that your brake pads are wearing out. Ignore this, and the grinding sound can translate into more serious problems down the line.

If bare metal rubs against your rotors, this could be a costly repair bill to replace, so get those pads checked!

Metal grinding noises in general

This is different from braking, as metal-on-metal grinding sounds can mean something on your car is out of alignment. Each and every component of a car should work in unison, and two components rubbing against each other is obviously not good.

This isn’t isolated to a particular area of a car too, and the severity of the issue is all down to what component is causing the issue.

Screech or Squeal each time you turn the wheel

If each time you turn the wheel and you hear a weird squealing or screeching sound, it may indicate that your power steering fluid is low, thus causing a lot of friction.

Alternatively, if you hear this noise but the wheel turns easily, then it could be a loose or worn power steering belt instead.

Sizzling noises

Similar to that hot plate dish you just ordered from a restaurant, sizzling sounds coming from the engine bay can mean excess fluid is coming into contact with the car’s hot engine. This fluid could be oil, transmission fluid, or coolant. 

The sound can also be attributed to an overheating engine, which is caused by the lack of sufficient coolant fluid. If you hear this sound, quickly pull over at a safe spot and turn off your engine.

DO NOT attempt to open your bonnet or any component until your car has cooled down. Some fluids can easily reach extremely high temperatures, and can easily scald you if you’re not careful. 

Flowing water

Each time you apply the brakes, you might hear the sound of rushing water or fluid running through your car’s systems.

This sound might indicate that your car’s brake fluid is leaking, and without enough fluid in your system, this could lead to issues like brake loss, so it’s best to get this checked out.

Subdued cracking noises when idling

This typically means your water pump might be kicking the bucket soon.

Water pump bearings with weakened seals, in conjunction with the belt rubbing against it, may cause strange cranking sounds to emanate from the car.

Peace of mind with AutoApp

Unusual sounds should be addressed immediately, as persistent problems can result in costly repair bills down the line.

If you notice a strange sound coming from your car but do not know how to diagnose it, why not give AutoApp a try?

Best of all, AutoApp is now running a promotion for basic servicing for new customers! Score $20 off your first servicing with us with the promo code – FOMO20. Better yet, all first-time customers also receive free concierge services (Collection & Delivery only) for your first booking with us!

Limited to the first 50 customers, so get started on AutoApp’s mobile app today, and claim your discount now!

Terms & Conditions

1. Valid for first 50 New Customers only.
2. Promo code must be mentioned during booking.
3. Promo code is only valid for servicing packages.
4. Booking must be received before 31st July 2023.
5. Free Collection & Delivery (U.P. $68) will also apply for all first-time customers.
6. Prevailing $5 booking fee & GST will apply.
7. Not valid with any other offers.

Tyre rotation is one of the simplest maintenance routines one can perform for their car. It only takes up a short period of your time, and costs next to nothing to undergo. However, this simple but crucial maintenance step is often overlooked, and it can lead to uneven tyre wear over time.

Ideally, you would want to replace all four tyres at the same time. With all four tyres having even amounts of wear, it makes it easier to keep track as well.

So what does ‘tyre rotation’ mean?

The term ‘tyre rotation’ means periodically changing the position of each tyre on your vehicle. You should rotate your tyres as recommended by your vehicle manufacturer, or if that information isn’t available, a good rule of thumb would be roughly every 8,000-10,000 kilometres.

Rotating your tyres also provide good opportunities to visually inspect each wheel for damage or to check if there is sufficient air pressure. You can even have them rebalanced if you’re noticing any vibration whilst driving, or inspect their tread depth to see if you are in need of a new set.

Why is it important?

There are several reasons why tyre rotation is a simple but important affair. By routinely rotating your tyres, wear and tear are spread evenly across all four tyres, maximising your tyre set’s lifespan. Depending on the type of car you are driving, your car’s wear pattern will vary slightly.

With even tread wear across all four tyres, handling and performance characteristics are kept consistent across all four tyres, improving safety.

For those of you who drive all-wheel-drive cars (looking at you Subaru owners), evenly worn tyres can lower the stresses on the drivetrain, reducing overall wear on expensive drive components. You would rather replace some tyres than an entire driveshaft, right?

Tyre Rotation Patterns

There are several different tyre rotation patterns that exist, and each is tailored to a specific kind of car. In most applications, the standard tyre rotation pattern is front-to-rear, but here are some other patterns that could also help promote longer tyre life.

Front-to-rear

• Rear tyres swap with the front tyres, done on the same side of the vehicle
• Used in situations when wear is normal, and also when tyres have directional tread (designed to roll in one direction)

Forward cross (Front-wheel drive vehicles)

• Front tyres are swapped to the rear, done on the same side of the vehicle
• Rear tyres are crossed to opposite sides when swapped to the front
• Used in situations when rear tyres show uneven wear

X-pattern (All types of vehicles)

• Front tyres are swapped with rear tyres in a cross or X pattern (E.g. Front left tyre is swapped with the rear right tyre)
• Used in situations when there’s uneven wear

Rearward cross (All-wheel, rear-wheel or four-wheel drive vehicles)

• Rear tyres are swapped to the front, done on the same side of the vehicle
• Front tyres are crossed to opposite sides when swapped to the rear
• Used in situations when there’s uneven front tyre wear

Side-to-Side (Staggered ‘differently sized’ wheels)

• Both front and rear tyres are swapped to opposite sides of the vehicle
• Used in situations when your front and rear tyres have different tyre widths and sizes

Schedule your tyre rotation appointment with AutoApp

If you are unsure of whether or not you need to rotate your tyres, or are looking for a reputable source to help you with it, why not try AutoApp today! AutoApp is a convenient one-stop platform for car servicing, maintenance and repair.

Our roster of specialised ambassadors and workshop partners will ensure your vehicle gets the best servicing treatment around.

Download AutoApp today, available on both the App Store and Google Playstore, via this link.

Have no fear, AutoApp has you covered on that. This article breaks down the common aspects you can look out for when shopping for that next set of wheels. Make an informed decision, and you’ll be smiling all the way to the bank with your new ride.

Engine

The engine is the very heart of the car and is obviously a key component. Over time, stresses induced when driving will invite huge amounts of wear and tear, particularly if an engine hasn’t been regularly serviced.

When dealing with a used car, it is a good practice to turn the engine over and let it idle for a short duration. This enables you to hear for any potential defects that might exist. Odd sounds are not something that would come from a prim and proper engine.

As an additional safety net, when possible you can also have a mechanic look over the engine bay, to ensure that all is in good order before committing to that big purchase.

Leaks

One of the easiest things to spot on a used car are fluid leaks. There are numerous fluids that run in, around and under the engine, and a well-maintained car shouldn’t spring a leak. 

When you view a used car, check underneath for signs of any fluid leak. If there’s oil on the ground under the car or lots of sludge under the car, chances are an oil leak has occurred.

It’s good practice to open the bonnet too and check all around the engine for other leaks. Oil leaks are usually brown or black in nature. Coolant, also known as antifreeze in some countries, is usually green, pink or yellow, often denoted by their almost fluorescent-like appearance. Gearbox and power steering fluid are both reddish brown in colour. How to tell them apart? Well, gearbox fluid is usually thicker in consistency, while power steering fluid is more viscous.

If you see any such leak on the car, it’s worth getting it seen by an expert so you know the exact problem, and what it’ll cost to fix. Fluids may seem like a trivial matter, but can sometimes cost a bomb to repair.

Oil

Apart from leaks, checking the oil in an engine is an extremely easy task that shouldn’t be forgotten during the buying process. Pop out the dipstick, and check if the reading is at the correct level. The oil shouldn’t be discoloured or has the wrong consistency too.

If it’s possible, check to see if the oil filter has been properly serviced, and not something that has been left there since the car left the showroom.

Head gasket

This one is a little more advanced, but it’s worth a read if you want to make sure an engine is in proper working order. The head gasket is a thin engine component that sits between the lower and upper parts of the engine. Its purpose is to prevent coolant or engine oil from entering the engine’s cylinders, much like a seal.

A blown head gasket is never a good sign, as this can cause a variety of problems. Cars suffering from this may experience a smoky exhaust, loss of power, a rough-sounding engine, or even total engine failure.

So how do you go about examining this? Make sure the engine is cool, then proceed to remove the oil cap from the top of the engine. If you see white or light brown sludge with a sauce-like consistency, you’re probably looking at the aftermath of a blown head gasket. At that juncture, it’s probably worth walking away from the deal. A blown head gasket may conceal a lot more problems underneath, and it’s hard to know what other damage the problem has caused.

Exhaust smoke colours 

Turn over the engine and walk to the exhausts of the car. A little puff of smoke when cold starting an engine is usually nothing serious, but watch the exhaust for a few minutes as it’s a telltale sign of a problem if it remains. 

Blue smoke means the engine is burning oil, which could indicate a blown head gasket or problems with the internal engine seals. 

White smoke can be harder to spot as it is hard to distinguish from steam, but excessive white smoke can also point to a head gasket failure. Unlike blue smoke, it is now coolant entering the cylinders and being burned with fuel.

Black smoke, the least concerning of the three, is usually caused by the engine burning too much fuel. It’s usually easier to rectify than the other two, but should be addressed too regardless in order to get a healthy running engine.

Bodywork

Examining the exterior of a car is one of the easiest visual inspections you can do. What you’re looking out for are any signs of repainting or replacement panels that might suggest the car has previously been in an accident.

For older cars, it is also a good practice to check for rust on all metal body panels. An early indication is bubbling under the paint but it can lead to visible rust if untreated. 

Wheels and tyres

Check all four wheels, plus the spare wheel if the car has one, and look for signs of damage to each wheel. Kerb rash is a common sight and isn’t usually a serious problem, but wheels that are bent or have large dents in the rims will need repairing or replacing.

Check all of the threads of the tyres too. They should be free from cuts, splits, gouges or bulges. Tyres are the only thing in contact with the road, so keeping them in good condition is essential for safety. If you see any of these signs, they’ll need replacing. 

Interior

One good tip we can give is to inspect the condition of a car’s interior. This is a good indication of whether the car’s mileage and odometer are genuine. A car with 20,000 kilometres on the clock should have an interior that looks almost like new. If the car looks tired and worn, you know something is up.

Of course, checking for rips or tears in the upholstery and cabin is good. But, what’s more, important is to check that all of the equipment works, from the lights to the HVAC system. All electrical features should be in working order. Budget for repairs if you spot anything amiss. 

Mileage and warning lights

While performing the other engine checks listed above, it is also good to check if there are any visible warning lights on the car.

Cars that have dashboards that light up like Christmas trees are definitely a sign you should probably stay away.

Take a test drive

You can only know so much when the car is static and parked. Whenever possible, request to take a test drive. Some buyers may not entertain this option, but be firm with them. Any reputable dealer will be happy to accompany you on a drive.

Try the car at a variety of speeds, and listen out for engine noise and any irritating rattles. Make sure the brakes and clutch are responsive and in full working order, too.

Used car documentation

The holy grail of used car purchases is a folder with all of the car’s documentation. This enables you to check the car’s history for any work carried out and all parts fitted. Plus it allows you to check the mileage against what’s displayed on the dashboard.

A service book is a valuable document too, as you can see who has serviced the car, and when.

If you are still not sure, fret not! AutoApp is here to help. Our team of experts can help assess your car, and determine any faults that may be present. Our trusted service translates to peace of mind for you!

With COE prices skyrocketing to oblivion, new cars are becoming less obtainable to the majority of buyers. As such, they may be looking into either renewing their current car’s COE, or shopping in the pre-owned market.

While older cars tend to have lesser features, they can be just as reliable as their brand-new counterparts. As long as you don’t neglect regular servicing, they can happily pur along our roads for years to come. Here are some common faults that older cars tend to have, and how to avoid them.

Regular maintenance is key

With thousands of components working together in tandem, there’s so much that can go wrong in an engine, especially in older cars where components may be worn down. Thus, we feel it’s vital to get your older car looked at by a mechanic or workshop at least once a year.

The last thing you want is an unexpected problem to pop up when you are out for a nice drive. Being stranded at the side of the road is never a fun thing to experience, so to avoid this it’s always in your best interest to bring your car in for regular servicing.

Oil’s well that ends well

If you can’t remember the last time you changed your oil, go do it now. Healthy cars are regularly serviced, and arguably one of the easiest things to replace is engine oil.

Over time, oil can lose its viscosity, and you don’t want black sludge to be running around in your engine, clogging vital engine components. Worse still, if you do not have sufficient oil circulating in your engine, this can lead to overheating or accelerated wear and tear.

If you are unsure of what grade of oil to put in, consult your car’s owner’s manual for the recommended type. You can either take your car to a trusted mechanic or if you aren’t afraid to get your hands dirty, oil changes are a great way to enter the world of DIY auto repairs.

Keeping it cool

Your engine is making thousands of explosions a day to keep you moving down the road. Understandably, things will get pretty hot, which is why cars have cooling systems.

While it doesn’t need to be replaced as often, coolant is just as important as oil in an engine. Make sure your car is topped off with coolant, and it’s always good to keep an eye on your temperature gauge for older cars. If there are any leaks coming from your radiator or hoses, get them replaced immediately. Without cooling, your car may suffer catastrophic failures, and blown engine parts are not something you would want to deal with.

Timing is everything

Most modern cars have a timing belt or chain which ensures all moving parts of the engine run smoothly. But, improper maintenance or worn belts can kill your car’s engine in a matter of seconds.

As a general guide, timing belts need to be replaced every 100,000 to 150,000 kilometres, while chains are more robust and need to be changed less frequently, with each needing to be replaced only every 130,000 to 200,000 kilometres, depending on your engine or car.

This isn’t going to be a cheap workshop visit, but once you get it over with, you won’t have to worry about another one for years.

Invest in the best tyres and brakes

We’ve all experienced this before – you ran over something while driving and your tyre is now a shredded mess. You obviously need a new tyre, and you hesitate on spending hundreds of dollars on a reputable brand, so you cheap out and get a tyre with a questionable brand. You do save money now, but going cheap on essentials like tyres can cost you more further down the line.

Tyres are one of the most important parts of a car. These round pieces of black rubber are the only things connecting your car to the road and are built to be able to keep you safe, even in precarious driving conditions. While they are cheaper, off-brand tyres may wear out faster or unevenly. Plus, without proper certification, these tyres may not be able to work effectively in situations like emergency braking or aquaplaning. To stay safe on the roads, it is advisable to get tyre brands that are reputable.

This rule also applies to your brakes. They’re the only things that can stop your car effectively, and having sub-par brakes may affect your car’s effective braking distance in emergencies. If you love your car, pay a little more and get the best. Trust us, it can save you money over the long haul!

Don’t be afraid to drive it

Say you own an older, high-mileage car. Yes, it is going to have its quirks, but contrary to popular belief, driving your car regularly can actually prolong its life.

A car that’s driven regularly is definitely a happy car, and driving it can keep things like hoses and gaskets from drying out, while essential vehicle fluids like oil, and coolants keep metal parts sufficiently lubricated and cool.

If you neglect an old car for a while, chances are you’ll start seeing leaks, and it is not an enjoyable experience to frequently visit workshops. So do your car a favour, and drive it regularly.

Need easy and simple car maintenance?

Here at AutoApp, we have lots of specialists who are able to take care of your car’s regular servicing. Best of all, you don’t even have to do anything! Just book an appointment via our mobile application, and sit back and relax as our team handles all the nitty gritty for you. It’s that simple!

Check out what NOT to do with an automatic gearbox, and more car maintenance tips and tricks.

It’s no secret that driving an automatic transmission car is a breeze compared to driving a manual one. The lack of a clutch pedal is a huge relief for some drivers, avoiding any potential scenario of stalling the car. But while it is definitely easier, it’s not completely idiot-proof. Here are five things you need to avoid doing when driving an automatic car.

1. Shifting gears when your car is still in motion

When parking or manoeuvring, it’s a good habit to make sure your car comes to a complete stop before switching gears. One example would be parking and swapping from Drive to Reverse or vice versa.

Should you switch gears while in motion, it will add strain to your transmission and prematurely wear it out, since you are relying on that instead of your brakes to stop the car.

While this can stop your car, the upset is that it wears out your transmission band quicker. This is a component which is harder to access and will require more downtime and costs to service in a workshop.

2. Putting your car in Neutral when stopping at junctions

Most of us have come across this to some degree, where drivers put their cars into Neutral or even Park when stopped at a junction. This is a common misconception where many think that keeping the car in Drive while stepping on the brake wastes fuel and causes unnecessary wear.

Sorry to burst your bubble, but keeping it in Park/Neutral may actually use up more fuel, as most modern engines idle at higher revs in those gears than if you had just kept it in Drive. Plus, the small repeated process of disengaging and re-engaging gears and switching into and out of Drive does add additional wear to your transmission. 

Some modern vehicles also make use of hybrid technologies to cut off the engine while stationary, so the engine only starts up again when you’re ready to set off! Keeping it in Neutral would more than likely prevent this from happening, as the cars are not programmed to cut off the engine in Neutral.

3. ‘Launching’ your car in a bid to get off the line quicker

Some drivers just want to get away from the lights the quickest, and that means revving the car while in Neutral and shifting it to Drive as soon as the lights go green, in a bid to zoom off. 

Please do not try this. By attempting this you are deliberately mashing the torque converter in your vehicle with your clutch, thereby wearing it out and giving you yet another expensive part to repair.

4. Coasting downhill in Neutral

This is a common myth drivers hear about which may help to “save fuel”. By keeping the car in neutral, you are essentially coasting with “minimal” revs, thereby saving fuel. However, being in neutral takes some control away from you, since you will be unable to accelerate the car and can only slow down using brakes and not using your car’s engine braking. 

Modern cars are intelligent enough to actually shut off the fuel supply while engine braking, which means you’re actually using zero fuel and getting better fuel efficiency; as opposed to putting the car in Neutral, in which case some fuel will be used as the engine is idling.

5. Shifting your car into Park before it’s fully stopped

When you engage Park on your gear shifter, a locking pin is inserted into a gear, locking your automatic transmission and preventing the car from moving.

As simple as it sounds, if you try to engage Park while your car is still in motion, it may wear down or even shear the locking pin right off, which at best will lead to more unnecessary costly repairs, and at worst might cause your car to roll away when parked on a slope.

Do not bring your car to the mechanic only when there’s a problem

Like humans who go through regular medical checkups, cars too need to be taken care of. Regular servicing is a cost that is part and parcel of owning a car, and by doing it you will prolong your car’s life and prevent unnecessary breakdowns from occurring. Like engine parts that require oil for lubrication, automatic gearboxes need transmission fluid to maintain smoothness and prevent excessive wear and tear. As a general rule of thumb, it is good to replace your transmission fluid once every 40,000km or so, to keep your gearbox is tip-top condition.

If you’re looking to service your car, try AutoApp today! Our mobile application connects you to a multitude of reputable workshops and specialists, providing you with the best car for your car.

Check out what to do when a car’s engine overheats, and more car maintenance tips and tricks.

Everyone knows that cars need regular maintenance, as parts wear out and degrade over time. But whereas forgetting something like your usual 10,000km oil change probably wouldn’t cause any major safety issues (although it absolutely shouldn’t be neglected), failing to change your tyres in a timely manner could lead to an accident, or worse. 

But how would you know when’s the right time to swap for a new set of rubber? After all, modern tyres are very durable, and you wouldn’t want to waste money throwing them out when they still have life in them. Well, most general advice tends to agree with 40-50,000km or 5-6 years as the rough guideline, but depending on your driving patterns, those figures could change drastically. Here’s AutoApp’s guide to spotting the signs that your car needs new shoes:

Tread depth

From a safety perspective, the most crucial aspect of a tyre is its tread depth. The tyre’s tread (or grooves) is what allows it to disperse water underfoot, thus keeping you on the road in wet weather. As your tyres wear out, the height of the tread blocks decreases, which means they can’t evacuate as much water, which means aquaplaning – and therefore a loss of control – occurs more easily.

The Land Transport Authority’s legal limit for tread depth is 1.6mm, which you can very easily check if you know how. Helpfully, most tyres sold these days have wear indicator bars – little ridges in the bottom of the tyre tread – which are exactly 1.6mm tall. When they become flush with the surface of the tyre, as seen above, that’s when they absolutely need to be changed.

If your tyres don’t have these wear indicators, an alternative method is to stick a coin in the groove and see how deep it goes. If the tread doesn’t cover up the “Singapore” on the back of a $1 coin when viewed from the side, or doesn’t meet the inner circle on the front of a 20c coin, then it’s time for a trip to the tyre shop.

Age

Even if you cover only low mileage annually, and thus don’t use up much of your tyre’s tread, tyres can’t last forever. As they age, the rubber compound hardens, which means they grip the road less effectively, increasing your chances of losing control if you have to make an emergency maneuver. And this applies both in the wet and dry.

Most experts agree that 10 years is the absolute limit for a tyre’s shelf life, although after 5 years, it’s a good idea to start doing regular visual checks for defects, which we’ll get to next. You can determine your tyre age by looking for the four digit date code on the tyre’s sidewall – check out our sister site Asia’s Ultimate Tyre Awards’ handy guide on how to decode tyre markings.

Visible defects

Just because your tyres are still young and haven’t covered much distance doesn’t mean they can’t go wrong. Poor alignment, aggressive driving and debris such as screws and nails – all of these are factors that can lead to premature wear on your tyres.

Some of the signs to look out for and their causes include:

• Uneven wear across the tyre’s width – indicating bad alignment (see how the outer edge of the tyre above is a lot smoother than the inner edge)
• Small cracks on the tyre shoulder or sidewall – indicating they’ve become too old and brittle
• Bulging sidewall – indicating internal damage to the tyre’s structure, usually as a result of hitting a pothole or kerb too hard
• Tears or missing chunks in the tread – indicating overly aggressive driving and steering inputs
• A tik-tik-tik-tik-tik-tik sound while driving, especially audible at low speeds – indicating a foreign object might have embedded itself in the tyre. If you’re lucky, the object might be plugging the hole and holding off the tyre going flat, but it’s still best to visit a tyre shop to have it removed and the hole patched before it gets worse

Driving feel 

Lastly, just as how doctors tell you to listen to your own body to know if you’re falling sick, so too should you pay attention to feedback from the car to know if anything’s amiss. More tyre squeal when cornering in the dry; a more nervous, unstable feeling when driving in the rain; more road tyre roar when cruising down the highway – all of these are sensory cues that your tyre’s performance is starting to deteriorate, and should warrant at least a precautionary check to determine if you actually need to change your tyres.