These are services you are most likely looking out for when you need quick and efficient high-dependency transport. 

Recently, I got the chance to ride along with Prime Aces Limousine, a new limousine conglomerate. They not only meet these aforementioned expectations but exceed them with a level of refinement that distinguishes them as a premier choice in Singapore’s luxury transport sector.

A Bespoke Chauffeur Experience

Prime Aces Limousine presents itself as a dedicated executive chauffeur service, catering to discerning clientele who value efficiency and seamless travel. A review of their offerings reveals a fleet comprising luxury sedans, executive MPVs, and electric vehicles.

Their services range from airport transfers to corporate roadshows, each promising discretion, reliability, and professionalism.

My engagement with Prime Aces Limousine commenced with a seamless booking process which is entirely digital.

On the proposed date, the driver arrived ahead of the scheduled time, eliminating any concern of last-minute delays. A notification confirmed their arrival, ensuring a smooth transition from scheduling to service execution.  

Upon entering the vehicle, I was greeted with a level of courtesy and professionalism that was neither excessive nor impersonal. The interior was relatively clean, and thoughtful amenities such as bottled water, tissues, and an umbrella were discreetly arranged. 

A Pleasant Journey 

The difference between a standard ride-hailing service and a premium chauffeur-driven experience becomes evident the moment the journey commences. The drive was smooth, measured, and entirely devoid of abrupt acceleration or unnecessary manoeuvres.

A particularly noteworthy moment occurred when the driver adjusted the air-conditioning without prompt, having noticed that I appeared slightly uncomfortable with the temperature.

While a seemingly minor detail, this level of attentiveness reflects an understanding of service that transcends mere transport and ventures into anticipatory hospitality.

Arrival at the destination was timely, and the driver even sent a thank you note after I disembarked.

A Premier Choice

In a competitive market where private transport services are abundant, Prime Aces Limousine distinguishes itself through professionalism and meticulous service delivery.

They are exemplary in their execution, and I am confident I would engage in their services again in the future.

Read more automotive news at AutoApp, or check out our latest videos on YouTube and on TikTok!

For the purpose of this article, we’ll focus on an internal combustion engine (ICE) vehicle’s 12-volt battery. This battery can be found under the bonnet in the engine compartment, or in a specific purpose-built recess in the boot.

There are some rare occasions where the 12-volt battery can be found under one of the seats in a multipurpose vehicle (MPV) or in the footwell of some supercars. There are also some higher-end vehicles which may feature two batteries instead of just one, with one usually smaller than the other.

In any case, the main function of the 12-volt battery is to provide cranking power to start your vehicle’s ICE. Its other function is to provide protection against voltage spikes and surges to the vehicle’s various computers.

With the engine running, the alternator provides electricity to the various components of a vehicle as well as charging the battery. When the engine is not running, power to run lights, the infotainment system, alarm and security system, and stereo comes from the battery.

This is why it is not a good idea to run these items for too long with the engine off, since the alternator, which is driven off the engine, is not spinning and charging the battery.

Types of Batteries

We’ll focus on the four main types of batteries that are readily available in the market. First, the two wet-cell types.

Flooded Lead Acid Battery (FLAB)

This is the oldest type, is very common and the most affordable. Most FLABs are typically comprised of six cells of lead-antimony plates, which are immersed (flooded) in a sulphuric-acid-and-water electrolyte solution.

Occasional maintenance is required for this type of battery, by checking and topping off each cell to the required level with battery water. FLABs must also be installed vertically to prevent the electrolyte from spilling.

If discharged to below 50% of the rated capacity, FLABs will experience significant shortening of their lifespan.

Enhanced Flooded Battery (EFB)

The EFB is also a common battery type. If you’ve heard of mechanics and fellow car owners talking about maintenance-free batteries, they’re likely referring to the EFB. EFBs still contain an electrolyte solution and cells of lead-antimony plates, but they’re all sealed within the outer plastic housing.

This battery type was introduced to provide more lifespan than its older FLAB ancestor. However, just like its ancestor, EFBs should be mounted vertically and should not be discharged to below 50% of their rated capacity, lest their lifespan is significantly shortened.

Next are the two common types of dry cell batteries.

Gel Cell Battery

Gel cell batteries, or gel batteries, were developed as a spill-proof version of the FLABs and EFBs. Instead of lead-antimony plates, gel batteries feature calcium-lead plates. Silica is added to the electrolyte to turn it into a spill-proof gel.

Gel batteries can be horizontally-mounted if need be, and are more shock- and vibration-resistant than FLABs and EFBs.

Gel batteries are also better suited to deep-discharge applications such as vehicles with very high-powered custom in-car audio installations, and will not wear out as quickly as FLABs and EFBs.

Absorbent Glass Mat Battery (AGM)

Although AGMs are referred to as dry-cell batteries, they’re actually quite similar to the wet-cell types. A fibreglass separator, or glass mat, absorbs the electrolyte and holds it in place.

AGMs can charge up to five times faster than their wet-cell counterparts. They’re also capable of being deep-discharged like the gel batteries. Naturally, AGMs are the most expensive battery-type of the four.

Modern cars with auto engine start/stop technology and mild-hybrid vehicles that recover energy from braking use AGM batteries. For such vehicles, replacement batteries must be of the AGM type, and the other three types should not be used.

One More Dry-Cell Battery

We haven’t forgotten lithium-based 12-volt batteries. These offer much stronger engine cranking and can charge up much quicker than FLABs and EFBs. They’re also much lighter than most other battery-types, but are much more expensive and are primarily used in weight-reduction scenarios, such as in motorcycles and motorsport applications.

Unless you know what you’re doing, there’s no need to spring for lithium-based batteries.

Replacing Batteries

The important thing to look out for is that the replacement battery must be of the same capacity as the outgoing one, meaning it needs to have the same or better cranking amps (CA) or cold cranking amps (CCA).

Cars with engine start/stop technology and/or mild hybrid drivetrains require AGM batteries, and only these should be used for replacement. Older vehicles which use FLABs or EFBs can be replaced with FLABs, EFBs and gel batteries, or even AGM if the vehicle owner is feeling generous.

Something else we’ve noticed is that regardless of battery type, the change interval in Singapore is around two years. This is likely due to our climate, driving conditions and the increased popularity of dashcams.

Yes, dashcams. A dashcam that is set to operate most if not all the time when parked can contribute to shorter battery lifespan, so keep that in mind when choosing your dashcam’s ‘parking’ setting.

Gel cell or AGM batteries would be more suitable for vehicles with permanently-wired dashcams, or you could choose to have an accessory battery pack installed specially for this purpose..

I’ve got a dead battery HALP!

Many of us have faced this dreaded scenario before.

We go to our car, unlock it, get in the driver’s seat and try to start the engine, only to be met with a solitary click or a series of clicks from the starter motor and nothing else. Sometimes, the engine may crank very slowly but doesn’t fire into life.

Here are two methods of jump-starting a vehicle with a dead battery.

1. Two-Vehicle Jump-Start

The first item needed for a two-vehicle jump-start is a pair of jumper cables. Be aware though, not all jumper cables are created equal. See the two images below:

Always use a quality set of jumper cables with thicker-gauge wires. The reason for this is because starting an ICE requires high power draw. A thinner-gauge set of jumper cables may not be able to deliver all the cranking amps needed at best, or start to overheat and present a fire hazard at worst.

Now that a suitable set of jumper cables that are sufficiently long have been obtained, get a friend to help. Doing this as a tag-team makes things so much easier.

First, drive the boosting vehicle to the one with the dead battery so that the batteries or manufacturer-specified jump-points are in relatively close proximity. In most cases, this would mean engine-bay to engine-bay.

Then, get your helper to hold one end of the jumper cables up and apart from each other.

This is important because the jaws of the jumper cable should never come into contact with each other, lest a short circuit is created that can potentially fry sensitive electronics and also start a fire.

Get the helper to connect the red cable’s jaw-end to the positive battery terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Then do the same on the boosting vehicle.

With this done, the helper will connect the other jaw-end of the black cable to a suitable body grounding point on the vehicle with the dead battery. Usually this would be a bolt on the strut tower, the grounding point on the engine itself, or the negative terminal of a manufacturer-specified jump point.

Finally, proceed to connect the the jaw-end of the black cable to the negative battery terminal of the boosting car. Both vehicles are now electrically connected to each other. We can proceed to jump-start the vehicle with the dead battery.

Get the helper to sit in the driver’s seat of the boosting vehicle, start the engine, and then bring engine revolutions up to 2,500rpm. This will allow the boosting vehicle’s alternator to charge at its rated capacity and help the jump-starting process.

Finally, jump into the dead-battery vehicle’s driver seat, turn off all unnecessary ancillaries such as the aircon, headlights and stereo, then proceed to start the engine. It should fire into life normally. If it doesn’t, try one more time and then call for a tow truck if the engine doesn’t start the second time.

With the distressed vehicle’s engine now running, disconnect the jumper cables after a couple of minutes in this order.

• negative on dead-battery vehicle
• negative on boosting vehicle
• positive on boosting vehicle
• positive on dead-battery vehicle

Remember never to allow any jumper cable-ends to contact each other or the bodywork of either vehicle during this procedure.

The dead-battery vehicle can now be driven to a workshop for a battery health check and replacement if needed.

2. Jump-Pack Jump-Start

Jump-packs come in all shapes and sizes, with the more powerful ones holding a bank of lithium cells. There are even supercapacitor-based jump packs that can charge their built-in supercapacitors with a dead battery’s remaining charge, and discharge all of that energy in a quick burst to start an engine.

Using a jump-pack is pretty simple. Connect the black cable to the negative battery terminal, and the red to the positive of the distressed vehicle. Remember not to touch any part of the bodywork with the jaw-ends.

Then turn on the jump-pack, start the engine normally, and disconnect the jump-pack.

Seven Tips to Extend Your Vehicle’s Battery Lifespan

The big question at this point is how should one care for their vehicle’s battery? Here are seven tips.

1. Avoid prolonged periods of inactivity

Modern vehicles have computers that monitor various aspects and functions. When parked, most of these computers go to sleep, but one or two may awaken at select periods to monitor certain things, like the security system. This, naturally, puts a small load on the vehicle’s battery and causes it to discharge.

If a vehicle is to be parked for more than a week, it is advisable to connect a good quality trickle charger to the battery to keep it charged up for the next engine start and commute. Trickle chargers of higher quality are also able to desulphate lead sulphate crystals built up on the battery plates to improve the battery’s health.

If you live in a HDB flat or condominium where power outlets are not available, consider disconnecting the negative terminal lead instead to cut off any electrical draw.

2. Avoid too many short journeys

Along with not letting a vehicle sit parked for too long, short start-stop journeys put a huge strain on the electrical system since the alternator would not have sufficient time to charge the battery up.

Modern vehicles also feature auto start-stop technology which kills an engine when stopped in traffic and starts it up again when one is ready to move off. Auto start-stop is an even larger strain, and combined with short journeys actually accelerate battery drain.

If your typical commute involves short journeys of five kilometres or less, or a purely street-based commute with multiple traffic-light stops , consider taking a longer drive of around 50-100km at least once a week, if not twice.

Simply jump on the nearest highway and drive around the island until you circumnavigate your way back home, or go visit a relative or friend who lives further away. This will allow the alternator to charge more optimally and the battery itself won’t be subject to heavier loads during a longer distance cruise.

3. Unplug cables and accessories

Parasitic draw is a large but often hidden cause of battery drain. Mechanics have encountered situations where a brand new battery goes flat within a month, and the parasitic-draw issue was painstakingly tracked down to an errant electrical accessory that continued to stay powered on while the vehicle was turned off.

Consider disconnecting your USB cables and devices, and any other accessories that are powered by the vehicle’s electrical system before locking and leaving your vehicle.

Which then brings us to the next tip…

4. Turn off lights when locking and leaving your vehicle

“We’ve all done it before – leaving the interior light(s) on after looking for something in your cabin or the headlights on after parking your car after a driving on a rainy day.

These lights, when left on overnight, will cause a battery drain and much frustration when the vehicle fails to start the next time.

A good habit is to always turn around when leaving to check your car if lights have been left on, and also admire how well you’ve parked.”

– Kenneth Yeo, General Manager, AutoApp

5. Keep the terminals clean

Another source of poor electrical performance in a vehicle is corroded battery terminals. We’re talking about the unsightly green powdery stuff that builds up on the terminals of FLABs and EFBs, and can cause connection issues.

A DIY remedy is to pour some hot water on the terminals to flush away the build-up. A small copper brush and degreaser can also help with cleaning duties.

Once the terminals are clean, apply a thin layer of automotive grease to the terminals to reduce the incidence of such corrosion. Also inspect the terminals once a month and during each service.

6. Have the battery tested periodically

When booking a service, you should request to have your vehicle’s battery health ascertained. This involves connecting a tester to the terminals and applying a load to see if the battery’s rated CA or CCA matches what the tester is seeing, as well as its state of charge.

Readings that are significantly lower could be indicative of a battery on its last legs.

7. Do not wait to replace an ageing battery

A tell-tale sign of a dying battery is a noticeably longer duration to crank the engine over into life. Engine cranking would also be slower and feel more strained.

Another, for more modern cars with auto start-stop technology, is the engine remains running while an advisory warning pops up on the instrument cluster saying something to the effect of “Auto Start/Stop Unavailable – Battery Charge” or similar.

One more is a bunch of unrelated error messages and codes that get thrown up once the vehicle is started.

All of these point to a battery that’s on its way out.

Since no one likes to be left stranded with a dead vehicle, have your vehicle’s battery tested periodically and changed around every two years, or when the tested CA is significantly lower than the battery’s rated CA, whichever happens first.

Overwhelmed?

Well, don’t be.

AutoApp can handle all of your car’s servicing needs and keep you updated along the way. Battery health checks can be scheduled together with your regular servicing, and we’ll even remind you when it’s due for replacement.

Our panel of partner workshops are carefully curated to offer the most optimal and timely servicing solutions for your car. We’ll also remind you when your next servicing is due so that you don’t have to worry about getting it done on time.

Other safety-related and maintenance checks such as the wear of brakes and tyres are checked during servicing with Autoapp.

Leave the hassle to us. Let go, let AutoApp.

Download the app here.

Click here for enquiries.

Read more automotive news at AutoApp, or check out our latest videos on Ignition Labs TV!

Using windscreen wipers when the heavens open up is a foregone conclusion. Newer cars come with rain-sensing wipers which automatically activate when the celestial sprinkle starts, which pretty much means set and forget it.

The problem here is that with the set-and-forget mindset, people simply forget that their wiper blades are a regular service item, only to be frustrated by streaks and uneven wipes that impede outward vision during rainy weather.

The follow-on problem is that people also forget that their vision was marred post wet-weather drive, and go about their business as usual until the next inclement weather episode.

Frustrate-and-forget. Rinse and repeat.

When to Change

Let’s start with the obvious. If your wiper blades are well and truly worn, and/or leave streaks and un-wiped patches in its swept area on the windscreen, it is high time to change them out.

This would also be true if the blades are chattering and/or squeaking badly while wiping.

However, it’s best not to let things get to this stage, as worn blades can also lead to windscreen damage by instilling scratches that might require highly specialised polishing to remove at best, or a windscreen replacement at worst. Windscreens ain’t cheap folks.

If your vehicle is always parked outdoors under the elements and susceptible to fallout from trees, industrial sources and the like, consider changing your wiper blades when streaks start to show or every year, whichever comes first.

Remember, it isn’t just wiping that deteriorates blades. So do sun and associated heat and UV exposure, and accumulated debris along the blade that can cause it to deteriorate faster.

Otherwise, consider changing the blades when streaks start to show or every two years, whichever comes first. This will allow you to retain better forward visibility during wet weather and will also protect your windscreen from scratches.

Types of Wiper Blades

The most common and affordable is the conventional type.

These types of wipers have a cartridge comprising two shorter suspension arms built into a longer bridge that holds the actual blade to the windscreen. The benefit of the conventional type is twofold.

One is that the entire cartridge together with the blade can be replaced, which makes things much more convenient.

The other is that blade inserts can be purchased and replaced on the existing cartridge if preferred, offering a more cost-effective replacement solution. Usually, the cartridge can last many years, which means cost-savings on inserts.

The other common and newer wiper blade is the flat type.

Flat-type blades have tensioned metal within that supports the blade. This is why when the arm is picked up off the windscreen, flat type blades tend to resemble a bow. This means the blade can better conform to the curvature of the windscreen and is much more effective at wiping.

Furthermore, a flat-type blade has an aerodynamic spoiler integrated into its form. At highway speeds, this integrated spoiler causes the blade to press down with greater pressure and be more effective at wiping since the blade does not lift away from the windscreen.

There is a third type called a hybrid blade, which uses the best features of conventional and flat-type wipers.

The blades themselves can be made of natural or chloroprene rubber, or even silicone. While there is raging debate online on which of these is best, consider the recommended change interval and use whichever suits your wallet.

Wiper Care

Let’s say you’ve just had a set of brand-new blades installed. How do you take care of them so that they’ll last the distance?

A good rule of thumb when washing your car would be to lift the wiper arms off the windscreen and run your wash media (sponge, mitt, etc.) over the blade itself to remove accumulated debris.

This would help remove any road grime picked up from daily driving and make the blades more effective during rain.

During day-to-day usage, it’s best if you can check for debris on and under the wiper blades, and clear them out before setting off. This is especially so when parked in an open carpark.

Neglecting to do this is what causes streaks on the windscreen when the wipers are at work. Accumulated debris can permanently deform and/or damage the blade, or even scratch the windscreen, so spend a minute to clear the junk.

“Wipers are an important safety feature and something our Service Ambassadors check on every time we pick up your car for servicing en route to the workshop (among other checks and observations).

Our advice is not to compromise on a low-cost item that plays such a big part in our unpredictable weather. Ensure original or good OEM ones are used for effectiveness and a longer lifespan.”

– Kenneth Yeo, General Manager, AutoApp

Overlooked Wipers’ Assistant

Banish any thoughts of squeegee elves magically appearing and dancing on your vehicle’s bonnet while they sing and clean the glass. The most overlooked wipers’ assistant is actually the windscreen washer fluid.

Keep the washer fluid reservoir topped off for the unfortunate times when a bird decides to drop a strategically-aimed bomb out its backside, or when mud from the road is flung up by another vehicle onto your windscreen.

Premixed windscreen washer fluid is available for purchase at most petrol stations and car-accessory shops, and you’d only need to top off the reservoir. Some cars have their rear windscreen reservoir in the boot, so consult your owner’s manual as to the actual location(s).

Due to premixed washer fluid containing glycol, alcohol and/or surfactants, one may not want to use this due to the paintwork stains they can potentially leave behind. In this case, use straight distilled, de-ionized or reverse-osmosis water to reduce the amount of potential stains on paintwork.

Stressed Out?

Well, don’t be. AutoApp can handle all of your car’s servicing needs and keep you updated along the way. Wiper replacements can be scheduled together with your regular servicing, and we’ll even remind you when they’re due for replacement.

Our panel of partner workshops are carefully curated to offer the most optimal and timely servicing solutions for your car. We’ll also remind you when your next servicing is due so that you don’t have to worry about getting it done on time.

Other safety-related and maintenance checks such as the wear of brakes and tyres are checked during servicing with Autoapp.

The Invisible Wipers

Here’s some bonus content, which is probably the most important aspect of windscreen wipers’ efficacy. By getting rainwater to roll off your glass, your wipers will have a much easier time. No, it’s not voodoo or black magic.

The main phenomenon that obscures vision during a downpour is that rainwater sticks to a vehicle’s glass, be it the windscreens or side windows.

As speeds increase, the air that passes over the front windscreen with greater velocity causes the stuck-on rainwater to ripple, much like the ripples on the surface of a pond or lake on a windy day.

Do you recognise this exact scenario in the image below?

This phenomenon of water sticking to the glass and rippling more with speed is what causes your outward vision to be obscured during a downpour.

The solution, therefore, is to break the surface tension that causes rainwater to adhere to glass in the first place. This is where hydrophobic coatings come into their own, especially during torrential downpours that cause all and sundry on the road to shudder.

A hydrophobic coating breaks surface tension on the glass, causing water to bead up into droplets.

At lower speeds, these droplets are easily dealt with by wipers. At higher speeds, the air that passes over the windscreen literally ‘blows’ the droplets up and away, giving the wipers much less water to wipe.

Since there is no film of water adhered to the glass and rippling away with speed, you therefore enjoy a much clearer forward vision in the process to enhance safety.

AutoApp offers a service to prep and coat all the glass panels of your vehicle to make them hydrophobic. This is a thorough and involved process that takes around 1.5-hours to complete, and also includes cleaning the inside glass surfaces for clearer outward vision.

The coating lasts up to one year. Click here for enquiries.

Download AutoApp here. Leave the hassle to us. Let go, let AutoApp.

Read more automotive news at AutoApp, or check out our latest videos on Ignition Labs TV!

Believe it or not, there are car owners who think that regular vehicle servicing is a conspiracy theory solely meant to enrich oil companies and spare parts manufacturers.

Well, here are two examples of engines, one out of an Infiniti and the other a turbodiesel Mercedes-Benz powerplant, that have been so severely neglected that their internals end up caked in sludge. Not to mention these engines have also self-destructed.

Here are some regular maintenance items to keep an eye on.

Engine Oil & Filter

Oil is the lifeblood of an internal combustion engine. It not only lubricates but also cools the engine as one drives down the road.

Without prompt and regular oil changes, an engine will not function well. In some extreme cases, it might even erupt violently while throwing a rod out the side of the engine block and leaving the owner stranded.

Imagine shelling out thousands, or even tens of thousands of dollars to replace a blown engine because an owner was “too frugal” to spend on regular oil changes. Penny-wise, pound-foolish.

Along with engine oil, the oil filter needs to be replaced at the same interval as well.

If the interval calls for 10,000-kilometre oil changes or every year, whichever comes first, then follow it strictly. A couple of hundred kilometres or a couple of weeks either side of that interval is fine, but never let it get past that.

Even if you don’t use your car regularly and don’t clock the required mileage, the oil still needs to be changed periodically due to degradation from occasional cold-and-hot cycles.

Remember, oil is cheap but engines are expensive. Taking care of your engine is the best prevention tactic.

Transmission Fluid

Just like engine oil is the lifeblood of an internal combustion engine, transmission fluid is the lifeblood of a gearbox.

Manufacturers in recent times have been touting their transmission fluids to be “lifetime fluids” or “sealed for life.” We all know what happened to those transmissions, which proceeded to grenade themselves after a prolonged lack of transmission fluid changes.

‘Lifetime’ in manufacturers’ parlance likely means the warranty period or 100,000-kilometres. Why? Simply because they want you to buy more vehicles from them sooner!

Adopt a servicing regime of every 60,000 to 100,000-kilometres for your transmission fluid and your car will chug along happily. Even if the owner’s handbook doesn’t specify any intervals at all, it is good to keep this in mind.

This is also applicable for continuously variable transmissions or CVTs. Always ensure the correct fluid for the respective transmission is being used.

Engine Air Filter

Imagine someone plugging up your nostrils to a tenth of their regular size and you being forced to breathe through those tiny orifices. Difficult isn’t it? Likewise, your vehicle’s engine needs to breathe freely to run at its optimum.

The period to change the engine air filter can vary anywhere from every 50,000 to 80,000 kilometres, but follow the interval stated in your owner’s handbook and your engine will be much happier for it.

Cabin Air Filter

Just like the engine needs to breathe clean air, so do you and the occupants of your vehicle. Cabin air filters need to be changed every 20,000 to 30,000 kilometres, more so if the occupant(s) smoke(s).

A clogged and dirty cabin air filter will affect the efficiency of the vehicle’s aircon, and may also introduce foul smells into the cabin. For the sake of your health and that of your loved ones, have it changed regularly.

Timing Belts (and Chains)

Timing belts should be regularly replaced. The first replacement usually is at 100,000 kilometres, and subsequently every 80,000 to 100,000 kilometres thereafter.

A timing belt change will also usually involve changing out the coolant pump and coolant, as well as idler pulleys and tensioner bearings.

Neglect this, and when the timing belt shreds itself to pieces, expect valves to make contact with pistons and carnage inside the engine to ensue. A timing belt replacement costs far, far less than an engine replacement.

A timing chain system, in theory, is meant to last the lifetime of the vehicle. In practice, chain guides can disintegrate and come apart, and chains can stretch. These can lead to valves making contact with pistons, leaving you with an ugly mess.

An experienced mechanic will know how to promptly identify the symptoms of a failing timing chain system, and remedy it with a new chain, tensioners and chain guides before calamity strikes.

Valve De-carbonisation

Purely direct-injected engines have issues with carbon building up on the intake valves. This is due to a lack of solvent (petrol) flowing over the valves to keep them clean, which is what a port injection system would do.

Some manufacturers such as Toyota have incorporated both port- and direct-injection, and such internal combustion engines do not require valve de-carbonisation.

If your vehicle’s engine is purely direct-injected, adopt a valve de-carbonisation servicing regime every 60,000 to 80,000 kilometres. This is a rather involved process, so leave at least half a day for it.

Neglect it, and expect the engine to run rough, skip timing and at worst, drop a valve into the combustion chamber and cause the engine to wreck itself.

Tearing Your Hair Out Yet?

Well, don’t.

Just realise that there’s more to car ownership and maintenance than the items stated above, such as changing spark plugs, brake fluid flush, periodic tyre rotation and wheel alignment, aircon and engine refresh, etc.

If this is way over your head, and all you want to do is drive your vehicle, there’s a ready solution for you.

AutoApp can handle your car’s servicing needs and keep you updated along the way.

Our panel of partner workshops are carefully curated to offer the most optimal and timely servicing solutions for your car. We’ll even remind you when your next servicing is due so that you don’t have to worry about getting it done on time.

Other safety-related and maintenance checks such as the wear of brakes, wipers and tyres are checked during servicing with Autoapp.

Leave the hassle to us. Let go, let AutoApp.

Download the app here.

Click here for enquiries.

Read more automotive news at AutoApp, or check out our latest videos on Ignition Labs TV!

If you’re thinking, “I want to sell my car and get the best return,” you’re not alone. Everyone in Singapore is on the hunt for the highest return when it comes to selling their used car.

In a land where cars are a serious investment, every move you make can spell the difference between a good deal and a downright fantastic one. Especially now, with the 2023 budget revision slapping us with increased ARF rates, timing is the name of the game.

COE can play a big factor in pricing

The Certificate Of Entitlement or COE, for short. This little piece of paper wields the power to swing your car’s valuation. When COE prices shoot up, folks start eyeing the used car market with newfound interest, looking for a sweet deal that won’t burn a hole in their pockets compared to shelling out for a shiny new ride.

When that happens, the demand for used cars, whether they’re luxury models or everyday workhorses, goes through the roof. Suddenly, your trusty old ride becomes a hot commodity and its value skyrockets.

While cars in similar conditions might typically fetch similar prices, if your car boasts a lower COE, you might just find yourself with a heftier paycheck when you part ways with it.

However, this is only worthwhile if your car’s COE is much lower than prevailing prices and you’re not planning on buying another vehicle. Otherwise, purchasing another car, either new or second-hand, may negate any potential gains.

Essentially, in this current market, if you sell high, you buy high.  

It may be worthwhile to hold on to your car instead

This is why, in some situations, keeping your existing car can be more worthwhile down the line. The amount you’ll spend on maintenance will more than likely be cheaper overall than the costs required to run a new set of wheels.

“But my car looks old! How can I impress my new mother-in-law for CNY?” Fret not, as it is actually easy to give your older car a new refresh. And you’ll be surprised at just how much is on offer.

With AutoApp, we can help you bring new life into your current car. We cover an extensive range of services – be it spray painting, repairs, grooming, or new leather seats, the list is only limited by you.

We have dedicated service ambassadors who will take care of your car throughout its appointment, and we can even pick up and drop off your car at your doorstep. So you can just kick back and relax while we do the heavy lifting for you. Simple right?

Interested? Give us a call at +65 9102 8028 or drop an enquiry over on our website. For the best possible experience, download the AutoApp app to enjoy seamless bookings with us!

All you have to do is add your car details in the app, select which services you require, and sit back while we get to work. Our prices are always transparent, and we provide regular updates at each step of the way, so you can be certain only the best quality goes into your car.

Hold on to your car first, and ride the high COE wave

Instead of paying $100,000+ for a new COE, it may be in your best interests to keep your car and give it a new life. Your wallet will thank you too.

From complete engine overhauls to a brand new coat of paint, AutoApp can help everyone and every car to go the distance (until COE prices come down). Happy driving!

Read more automotive news at AutoApp, or check out our latest videos on Ignition Labs TV!

You’re driving along, just minding your own business and probably rocking out to your favourite tunes in your vehicle when suddenly, a loud “CRACK!” is heard and you see the effect of “stone meets windscreen at high velocity.” The sinking feeling in your chest and gut is palpable. Your mind starts racing.

“OH MY GAWD!!! My windscreen is cracked! What do I do now?” Well, fret not and read on.

Chipped vs. Cracked

In the best-case scenario, your vehicle’s windscreen may merely be chipped. In this case, count yourself lucky for in most instances, it can be repaired instead of needing to replace the entire glass panel. However, there are caveats.

First, the chip needs to be located at least 7cm from the edge of the windscreen. Next, if the chip is in the driver’s line of sight, it needs to be 10mm or less in size to be deemed repairable. Otherwise, chips of up to 25mm may be repairable if they’re not in the driver’s line of sight. All of this can be professionally assessed.

Once ascertained that the chip can indeed be repaired, the process starts with a potentially gut-wrenching but professionally executed micro-drilling of the chip in preparation for the next step.

Next, a special resin is injected into the drilled chip, and allowed to cure over a short period of time.

The repaired chip will then be virtually indistinguishable from the rest of the glass on the windscreen and life can proceed as normal. So, the question then is when should a chipped windscreen ideally be repaired? The answer is “as soon as possible.”

While a vehicle is in motion, the windscreen can and does flex in minute amounts, and this flex can cause an unattended chip to expand further and crack, thereby rendering repair out of the equation and replacement a necessity.

Replacement Windscreens

Assuming that the windscreen has been professionally assessed to require a replacement, it is now time to remove the old windscreen. This requires the trim around the glass to be removed, and the polyurethane adhesive beneath the glass to be carefully and methodically cut using specialised tools. Then, the old cracked windscreen can be removed.

Next, before the new windscreen goes on, some clean-up and prep work to the frame and dashboard needs to be undertaken. Any untreated corrosion or debris on the frame where the glass will sit will eventually allow water to seep through, so all of this needs to be thoroughly addressed at this stage.

A new layer of polyurethane adhesive is then laid down on the frame and the new windscreen is then carefully lifted and offered up to the vehicle. Once the installation is deemed correct, any previously-removed trim around the frame is reinstalled.

After letting it sit for a while for the adhesive to set, the windscreen is then tested for water-tightness, after which, it can be driven away. However, it will take a while longer for the adhesive to fully cure, so avoid washing the vehicle for a couple of days.

Original vs. Aftermarket Windscreens

Not all windscreens are created equal. Original windscreens can cost a pretty penny, while aftermarket windscreens may offer a more cost-effective option, possibly with the omission of a feature or two that the original had. Which option to go for will primarily come down to budget.

If your insurance policy has windscreen-replacement coverage, then the verbiage of the policy needs to be studied as to whether original replacements can be done or aftermarket windscreens are specified. If an out-of-pocket payment for the entire cost of the replacement windscreen is needed, then the aftermarket option may be more attractive depending on the situation.

Got some windscreen issues? AutoApp can help to take the hassle out of the process of windscreen repairs and replacements. Our experienced team will work with you and our panel of windscreen experts to assess the damage, study your vehicle’s insurance policy coverage and recommend the best option(s) available.

Better yet, you don’t have to leave home to get the fix done, since our Service Ambassadors will pick up your vehicle, bring it to get the repair or replacement done, and return it to you. So you can sit back, relax, and let us do the work.

Drop us a message to get the hassle-free process started!

Read more automotive news at AutoApp, or check out our latest videos on Ignition Labs TV!

This thought of repainting or a car wrap might have crossed your mind before. You may have bought a second-hand car and did not like the colour it came in, or rash decisions made you choose a different colour instead in the showroom when spec-ing your new ride. On paper you picked blue, but deep down you know you wanted that sleek, bright red…

In the past, you were stuck with only one option if you wished to upgrade the look of your car: repainting. However, in recent years car wrapping has started to gain global traction, with the service offering the same benefits as repainting but with the added benefits of shorter downtimes and more competitive costs.

The affordability of car wrapping has propelled its popularity, but this begs the question: Which should you go for?

AutoApp is here to help, and here are the pros and cons of both methods to help you make an informed decision between the two.

Costs

This is probably the most important factor to consider when choosing either service, as the budget may make or break your decision to go ahead with the service. In most applications, spray painting your car is the more expensive option.

Spray paint is permanent, and once your car changes color, it’s almost impossible to undo. In Singapore, most workshops will charge between $180-$200 for a single panel to anywhere from $2,000-$5,000 for the entire car depending on your car model as well as the overall complexity of the job. 

While there are cheaper options that exist on the market, do note that it could lead to a poorer finish overall!

On the other hand, car wrapping is a lot more affordable, where a basic color wrap starts in the ballpark of around $1,800. If you’re tight on funds or don’t wish to wrap the entire car, you could also opt for a partial application, which brings the cost down further!  

Plus, wrapping a car does not alter the original paintwork underneath. So, if at any point in time you wish to convert your car back to its original color, you can just let it rip and the wrap comes right off! But, please remove your wrap with the guidance of experts, as improper removal methods may result in your original paint being ripped off too.

Quality and variety

While it is more expensive, a good repaint can offer an overall better look for your car. Proper application can make your car look brand new with a deep shine, and you have the added bonus of mitigating any potential rust problems.

If you were intending to sell your car as well, repainting may be way to go. Repainting essentially gives a car a new lease on life, and that may help you with future sales.

Car wrapping is ideal if you have complex or complicated designs that would otherwise be very expensive to replicate with paint. Flexibility is another solid point for choosing wraps, as you can mix and match different swatches to your heart’s desire!

Car wraps do vary a lot in terms of quality. For the best possible finish, we would recommend doing proper research prior to committing, so you can rest easy knowing that your wrap is done by a reputable professional who has an extensive clientele list. If you are unsure of who to pick, our AutoApp services can point you to a partner workshop!

However, if you have a car with rust spots, dents or cracked paint, car wrapping may not be a suitable option. In order to apply a wrap, the car’s surface has to be in pristine condition to ensure proper application. Not heeding this advice may result in excess air bubbles, tears, or even pre-mature peeling of the wrap.

Downtime

Before heading into the spray booth for a fresh coat of paint, a car needs to go through preparation work. In some cases, it can take up to a few days of preparation. The process includes stripping off the old paint, fixing any defects such as dings and dents, and priming the car for its new coat.

After receiving its new coat, the paint also needs to be oven-baked and polished before the car can be delivered back to the customer. Hence, repaint jobs can take up to 3 weeks to complete.

Car wrapping, in most applications, takes far less time to complete compared to repaint jobs. Once you are satisfied with your decision, workshops can apply your wrap in a matter of days. All they have to do is clean the surfaces, dry them, and apply the vinyl. Job done.

Lifespan

This really depends on the quality of paint or workshop you decide on. Cheaper paint jobs may be more susceptible to environmental wear and tear such as stone chips. Without high-quality paints, your car may look worn and faded just after a few years. Also be wary of paint shops that offer really low quotes. Either the job will likely end up being shoddy with lots of orange peel in the colour coat and improperly-applied clearcoat that looks like it is barely there, or the low quotes could actually be part of a bait-and-switch exercise to get the car owner to cough up more cash.

However, an expensive paint job done by a reputable workshop can last a long time, contingent upon upkeep meaning how often it is cleaned and groomed – something AutoApp can definitely help with. If you want something that is made to last, repainting is definitely the better option.

Vinyl wraps on average can last between 3-5 years, depending on the owner and the environment the car is kept in. Some vinyl wraps even come finished with UV-resistant coatings which will help sustain their color under harsh sun exposure.

If you’re someone who just wants a short-term solution to changing the look of your car, then wrapping may not be a bad idea.

At the end of the day…

… there really isn’t a clear winner between repainting versus wrapping your car. Both offer unique positives, and both also come with their own caveats. It really comes down to the individual, and what your needs are.

If you just want to try out a new color for a while, wrapping is an efficient way to go. On the other hand, if you want the best possible quality that lasts for years, then repainting will be the go-to option.

If you’re intending to get either a repaint or car wrap, let AutoApp arrange this service for you! Click here to make a booking by email, or download the app.

Read more car maintenance tips and tricks here.

One of the last things that any driver wants is to be faced with an overheating engine. Putting aside inconvenience and loss-of-use, an overheating engine can quickly cause costs to spiral out of control if not attended to as quickly as possible. However, shtuff happens, so it’s good to be prepared and know what to do if and when faced with such a situation.

How to identify an overheating engine

One of the first things to be noticed is the coolant temperature gauge in the instrument cluster would be seen creeping toward the red zone. If said gauge is unavailable, a coolant warning light may illuminate on the dash instead.

This would likely be followed by an unmistakable sickly-sweet smell of coolant that permeates the interior of the vehicle. This could also be accompanied by steam billowing out from under the bonnet. Good-Samaritan motorists may also be urgently pointing at the car to indicate something has gone awry.

What to do

The first thing to do in the face of an overheating engine while on the road is to pull over, turn on the hazard lights and shut off the car as quickly as possible. This is because, if left unchecked, an overheat-situation can literally cause the engine to melt and distort, and this would mean breaking one’s wallet to shell out for a new engine.

That’s the best-case scenario.

The worst-case scenario involves one’s vehicle being engulfed in flames while the owner sadly watches their car literally burn to the ground. ‘Nuff said.

Next, get behind the crash barrier, if any, or onto the sidewalk and stand away from the vehicle’s engine. Most passenger cars are front-engined, so this would mean standing past the rear of the car. In the event that something decides to erupt or explode, one is at least not directly in the line of fire, and the closed bonnet would keep help things contained.

Finally, whether or not one is car-savvy, the best thing to do at this point would be to contact an automotive concierge service like AutoApp to arrange to have the vehicle towed to a partner-workshop for further diagnosis and repair.

What NOT to do

Never EVER open the bonnet when an engine is already overheating. Should the radiator cap, coolant-overflow tank, plastic radiator end-caps or coolant hoses fail while the bonnet is open, extremely hot, scalding coolant and steam can shoot out like a geyser and seriously injure anyone in its path.

Remember, the cooling system is pressurised and coolant usually sits around 75°-105° Celsius, and higher in an overheating scenario. If hospital-stays and skin grafts are not on one’s itinerary, leave the bonnet firmly closed and await the tow truck.

Do not ignore the coolant temperature gauge and keep driving when the engine is overheating. This will most likely lead to the aforementioned melted-engine at best and a flame-engulfed vehicle at worst leaving its occupants charred beyond recognitio ’nuff said.

There is ONE scenario where driving MAY be continued, but with a proviso that this applies ONLY to car-savvy folks who know what they’re doing.

If coolant temperature remains relatively normal during driving, and only starts to rise when the vehicle is stationary, then turn off the aircon compressor via the A/C button, wind down the windows, set the aircon thermostat to full heat and set the blower to maximum fan speed. This will allow for some additional cooling through the vehicle’s heater core within the interior, and help to mitigate rising coolant temperature somewhat. The engine would likely need to be turned off and restarted at traffic lights though, but it MAY be possible to limp the vehicle to the workshop in this manner. Again, the best thing to do would be to shut the engine off and get the vehicle towed.

Why do engines overheat?

The most common source of overheating engines comes from blocked coolant passages. If the engine’s cooling system is not properly maintained with coolant changes at mandated intervals, gunk can build up on the inner walls of the engine’s coolant jacket, resulting in poorer heat exchange from the engine to the coolant. If left unchecked, this in turn can lead to the rest of the cooling system gunking up, further worsening heat-exchange with the ambient air.

A good example of a neglected cooling system can be seen on this ChrisFix video. The point is to never allow the coolant and cooling system to degrade to such a state. Automotive concierge services such as AutoApp can take the headache and worry out of the equation, advising car owners when it is time to do a coolant flush, with pictures to illustrate why.

Another source of overheating engines is low coolant levels. There are a number of reasons why coolant levels can run low. Here are two common ones.

The first is a faulty head gasket, which allows coolant to enter the engine’s combustion chamber and be burned away during the combustion process. This phenomenon is most apparent during first-start in the morning when the engine is cold. A noticeable and relatively large puff of white smoke will be emitted via the exhaust pipe when the engine is started, indicating coolant in the combustion chamber(s). The effect of burning coolant off causes air pockets to be introduced into the cooling system, thereby degrading its performance. Also, hot combustion gases can make their way past the faulty head gasket and into the cooling system, thereby over-pressurising the system and further degrading cooling performance.

An unnoticed crack or puncture somewhere within the cooling system can also cause a leak, thereby running coolant levels low and degrading cooling performance.

Said crack can be easy to track down if it is in the radiator, one of the radiator hoses, or in the radiator’s plastic end-caps. Many a Subaru owner would be familiar with the latter, yours truly included. Leaks caused by such cracks are fairly common due to wear and tear, and keeping on top of things is key to a worry-free motoring experience. AutoApp can help owners stay ahead of the game in this regard, where checks are done on the engine and running gear during servicing, with preventative maintenance issues caught and highlighted before they occur – a mere oil change is simply not enough.

However, if the crack is located within the engine block or head, then it can be much more difficult to locate, and would require much more involved professional diagnosis. The usual cause of such cracking is one or more previous episodes of engine overheating where things were not properly handled in a timely manner. However, there have been instances of manufacturing defects that have also led to such occurrences.

A faulty thermostat can also lead an engine to overheat. The thermostat is supposed to open at a predetermined coolant temperature and divert hot coolant to the radiator to be cooled. However, if the thermostat is stuck closed, then hot coolant from the engine cannot make its way to the radiator, resulting in the engine overheating.

Finally, a fault in the cooling fans can also cause engine overheating. This may present itself in terms of a blown fuse, faulty fan relays, faulty fans or a combination of the three. This specific issue causes coolant temperature to rise while the vehicle is sitting stationary with the engine running at traffic lights or in a jam, and may not be apparent while underway because sufficient air is blowing past the radiator to keep things cooled. The aforementioned interior heater workaround combined with stopping and starting the engine would come into play in this scenario to limp the vehicle to a workshop, but best to shut down the vehicle and have it towed.

Keeping cool

No one wants to be caught out with a sizzling engine. However, as mentioned before, shtuff happens, so it is good to know what to do when the situation calls for it. Having AutoApp handy for such situations can mean the difference between being caught out like a deer in headlights, and catching and addressing the issue in a timely and proper manner. Less headache means more win for everyone involved.

Read more car maintenance tips and tricks here.

There are emergencies, and then there are EMERGENCIES. The kind where alarm bells go off and everything is bathed in red light and the crew of little people in your brain starts scrambling to their panic stations…

For the life-threatening kind that involves injuries or worse, the natural go-to resources are the police, ambulance, and possibly Civil Defence.

However, you might also encounter non-life-threatening emergencies like ‘accidents’ in the car. This might include carsick passengers, spilled infant formula, and messes that really need to be taken care of, pronto. If not, there may be long-lingering odours that eventually become permanent. 

Mission: Code Brown..?

Recently, newly minted AutoApp customer Tang Chi Sin encountered such a problem in his Nissan Note. An ill-feeling passenger threw up in the back seat and onto the back of the driver’s seat on the way home one evening. 

Not wanting to worsen the mess if it was incorrectly cleaned, Mr Tang began to frantically ask his friends if there was any professional cleaning service that was available to come to his aid at such short notice. Fortunately, one of his friends was an AutoApp customer who was impressed by its service and recommended Mr Tang give it a try. As it was an urgent situation, he called the hotline, (65) 91028028.

Understanding the urgency of the situation, our Operations Manager, Kenneth Yeo, assured Mr Tang that his team would clean up his Note even though it was outside the operating hours. “Since this is a last-minute emergency work, Kenneth was very kind to provide a schedule for me during the peak period close to CNY,” recalled Mr Tang on his Facebook review. 

Mission Impossible?

Upon confirming the details of the situation, AutoApp sprang into action. While its Service Ambassador was en route to pick up Mr Tang’s Note, other arrangements were being made for a professional detailer to prepare for the job. 

Ken (not Kenneth), AutoApp’s resident Master Detailer immediately went to work once the stricken Note arrived at the workshop.

From the moment the Nissan Note arrived at the detailing centre, Mr Tang received constant updates on the progress of the clean-up. He recounted his experience, “very personalized service by the team. While Ken is performing the cleaning, Alvin (from AutoApp) provides a constant update of the progress.” Feeling reassured that he had made the right decision, Mr Tang added, “I’m truly impressed by their effort to go the extra mile to assist me with this emergency work.”

When asked about the job, Ken noted, “There were vomit stains all over the seat and carpet. I used a hot steam cleaner to clean scrub and disinfect the affected areas as much as possible.”

With messes of this nature, numerous applications are necessary. “After that, I wiped through with clean cloths and repeated the process many times until the smell was gone. The last part was using a smoke bomb cleaner to get rid of the odour,” Ken continued. 

Mission: Success!

A couple of hours later, the Nissan Note was returned to its owner, as good as new. Delighted, Mr Tang wrote in his Google review, “Very friendly staff who goes beyond his duty in providing deep cleaning for my car. I’m really satisfied with the service provided!” 

Knowing who to call is one of most important first steps towards successfully managing an emergency. For Mr Tang, the crew that comes to mind if such a situation ever arises again would likely take the form of the AutoApp team.

Who you gonna call? AutoApp, of course! Reach us for emergency clean-ups, or regular servicing needs at 91-028-028 (phone/WhatsApp available).

If you prefer to do clean-ups yourself, check out our how-to article here.

Car care can look very different from one car owner to another. Regular maintenance and essential repairs aside, some car owners are happy with the bare minimum — a car wash every once in a while, and maybe a polish/wax job once a year. For others, cars are more than just a hunk of metal that brings them from point A to B, and these owners often spare no expense when it comes to making sure their ride is in tip-top condition, both inside and out.

At AutoApp, we have a variety of detailing and grooming options for every driver, and more recently, we’ve begun rolling out a full car clean-up service using Stjärnagloss products. As Scandinavian as the name sounds, the little-known brand (outside of enthusiast circles, anyway) hails from the United Kingdom. 

Luckily for us in Singapore, Strada Performance is the sole distributor of these detailing products in Singapore and Southeast Asia. We caught up with Joel Tam of Strada Performance to learn more about the products that look as photogenic as the cars they’ve been used on. (I mean, these products are super ‘grammable and this is a hill I’m willing to die on.) 

AutoApp (AA): Could you briefly introduce Strada Performance to us — what do you focus on, and what do you bring to your target audience and consumers?

Joel Tam (JT): Previously known as the retail arm of my marketing agency, Interpage, Strada Performance is a rebranding of the automotive parts and accessories division I used to run.

Back then, we were only carrying Borla Exhausts from the USA, but with the addition of new brands like Riaction Coilovers and EliteDrive Throttle Boosters in 2021, it made sense to start afresh and create a new company that focused on bringing quality parts and upgrades to the industry.

AA: Strada Performance is the exclusive distributor of Stjärnagloss in Singapore. What can you tell us about Stjärnagloss?

JT: Founded by Jack Cavanagh in the UK, Stjärnagloss is also a rebranding of a classic detailing brand that Jack enhanced and expanded upon. His range of products looks good, smells great and works miracles on vehicle bodywork. It made sense for us to reach out to him and see if he was keen to have Stjärnagloss in Singapore and Southeast Asia. With his blessing, Strada Performance is the sole distributor for Stjärnagloss here and rest of SEA.

AA: What do you think sets Stjärnagloss apart from other car detailing products?

JT: Products that really, really work. That’s the most important. The positive results from cars we’ve worked on and the feedback from customers have been overwhelming. The deep and glossy shine that you can see with your own eyes don’t lie. On top of that, the products smell awesome. The snow foam for instance has a coconut fragrance and the citrus pre-wash has a whiff of fruitiness to it. To top it all off, the branding is hip, current and modern, making it the perfect add-on to any driver’s arsenal of grooming products in his/her car boot or trunk.

AA: Strada Performance is also partnering with AutoApp to provide a new car detailing service using Stjärnagloss products. What can AutoApp customers expect from this service?

JT: As with all AutoApp services, we’re here for you when you’re simply too busy (or lazy) to do the work yourself. With the full range of wash, polish, wax, and maintenance products all readily available here in Singapore, our groomers and detailing partners will pamper your car and give it the car spa it needs from the inside and out.

AA: Who would you recommend Stjärnagloss to, and are there any restrictions? For example, the products might not be suitable for wrapped cars, cars with oxidised paintwork, cars with ceramic or glass coatings etc.

JT: Quite simply, we have a product for everyone. We even have a range of products for matte, frozen, and satin finishes. Be it a paintjob or wrap, we can get it looking as good as new again. We also have different kinds of polishes and waxes to treat and enhance various conditions of paintwork.

AA: On to something a bit more personal and fun — have you tried using Stjärnagloss products yourself? Tell us which is your favourite part of the grooming and detailing process, and also your favourite Stjärnagloss product and why.

JT: It was the very first thing I did even before I brought the brand and its products in. If I wasn’t convinced myself, it would have been impossible to share it with anyone else.

I’m particularly fond of the intricate steps and methodology of grooming the brand has. The approach of a two-bucket wash process, with the pre-wash and decontamination steps before shampooing the car (to avoid fine scratches on the paintwork), it’s all very OCD-like! 

Recently we groomed an 8-year old Aston Martin Vantage with our 18-step car spa, which included the application of our Fantastisk Hybrid Wax, and the results were jaw-droppingly amazing!

AA: Strada Performance also sells Stjärnagloss products. What advice do you have for car owners who would like to have a go at using Stjärnagloss products themselves?

JT: Just buy and try! Like many of our customers, if you’re a DIY person, you would’ve already heard about Stjärnagloss. Now you can save on all the hefty shipping costs and get your supplies from us. One particular product that has been flying off the shelves is the Torstig Microfibre cloth (60 cm X 60 cm), you can dry your whole entire car with one wipe without having to wring the cloth at all!

AA: Last but not least, in what ways do you hope to see the Strada Performance and AutoApp partnership grow?

JT: It already has, our other products like the EliteDrive Throttle Boosters have been finding many happy customers and we’ve got some Riaction coilover jobs lined up in the coming weeks too.

Ready to book your very first (or your next) Stjärnagloss service? Download the app and book directly, or WhatsApp 91-028-028 for more details!