While factory-equipped mats do the job, they often wear out faster than we’d like or are a hassle to maintain after some time.

This is where brands like ENZO come into the picture.

ENZO is a Singaporean brand changing the world of car mats with their premium, custom-fitted solutions. They’re built to last and tailored to the exact measurements of your car. 

Our CEO, Joel, recently got his car fitted, and well, the results speak for themselves. “Having fitted them in my 2010 Honda Odyssey, I must say that the car mats sit snugly around every contour of my car, over the floor panels across the three rows of seats, and even the boot.”

Why ENZO Mats Stand Out

So what makes ENZO’s mats so special? It all starts with the material.

They use high-quality thermoplastic vulcanisates (TPV). In simpler terms, TPV combines the best qualities into one robust package, offering unmatched durability, flexibility, and resistance to odours, even after extensive use.

Concerned about the environment? ENZO’s mats are REACH compliant, ensuring they’re toxic-free and made from environmentally sustainable practices.

Safety is another area where ENZO excels. These mats come with dual anti-slip properties and anti-bacterial technologies from Japan. Perfect if you have young children or elderly folks in the household.

“The anti-slip feature is the best I’ve ever experienced in my 25 years of driving and over 20 cars I’ve owned – the mats just stay in place perfectly. The honeycomb design also looks really good.”

For added peace of mind, ENZO’s materials are certified by the Société Générale de Surveillance (SGS), the global leader in quality testing and certification.

Practical And Easy To Maintain

ENZO mats are designed with practicality in mind.

They feature dirt traps to keep external elements at bay, and their waterproof properties mean that spilt liquids and mud won’t seep through.

Cleaning them is a breeze too; just rinse them with water and let them dry for about 15 minutes in good weather. “Cleaning is much easier as all the dirt just falls off easily. Vacuuming also is a cinch as the debris does not get trapped in the ‘hairy’ material of my previous “3M”-styled mats.”

Bet your own car mats aren’t as easy to clean, right?

Plus Some Added Peace Of Mind

ENZO also offers a 2-year (ENZO Care) or lifetime (ENZO Prime) warranty on their car mats*, and free delivery if you prefer them brought right to your doorstep. The car mats we tested were of the ENZO Care variety.

With options for thousands of vehicle models, anything from Toyotas to Ferraris, we’re certain ENZO has a robust solution for your car.

Drop by their shop to learn more or visit their website to place an order from the comfort of your home. Additionally, you can quote LAB15 for an instant 15% discount, no minimum spending required!

Don’t take our word for it, try it yourself. Feel the difference with ENZO car mats today.

ENZO Singapore
50 Serangoon North Ave 4, #02-20 First Centre, Singapore 555856

*Terms & Conditions apply

Read more automotive news at AutoApp, check out more car Tips & Tricks, or check out our latest videos on Ignition Labs TV and on TikTok!

We’re not lawyers, so do your own research before deciding anything. Disclaimer done, here’s what you need to know about mobile phone usage in your vehicle.

The legalese is as follows – holding a mobile communication device and operating any of its communicative functions while underway on the road or any other public place is an offence.

The penalty? A fine of up to $1,000, or imprisonment of up to six months, or both.

In other words, the driver has to be performing ALL of the following:

1. Holding a mobile phone
2. The vehicle is being driven, as opposed to standing still
3. The driver is using any function of the mobile phone.

Then, and only then, has an offence considered to have been committed.

So here’s the rub.

Let’s say you’re just holding your mobile phone while driving, but it’s turned off. That doesn’t meet the three criteria above… UNTIL a message, call, notification, etc. wakes up the screen, in which case it is considered an offence.

Bottom line – put the phone away while driving. As long as it’s out of your hands, you are fine.

Can I hold and use my phone at a red light?

Since the car is not underway, it doesn’t meet all three criteria above. The problem with this is becoming distracted by the phone.

How many times have we encountered the lights turning green, only to have some numbskull still sitting stationary at the lights for an extended period?

What about if I use my phone while it’s in a holder?

Again, the problem here is the distraction the phone creates. Although using a phone while it’s in a holder does not meet the three criteria listed above, one can still be nailed for driving without due care or reasonable consideration if the cops deem it necessary.

Worse still, if an accident arising from distracted driving results in injury or even death, then expect the charge to be much more severe.

But… but… but… I need to use my phone!

Pull over and park at the nearest carpark. Here you can use your phone to your heart’s content.

Look, we all have busy lives to run, but be considerate and don’t ruin anyone’s life, including yours. No point crying over spilt milk when something untoward happens.

Handsfree Driving

The advent of in-car connectivity means hands-free driving is now even more simple and easy to use. We’re talking Apple CarPlay and Android Auto.

Not only do they play your music or podcasts over the car’s stereo, but they can also manage incoming calls and texts, reading the latter out loud if so chosen.

Certain functionalities such as receiving and ending a call, and adjusting volume can be done via steering wheel-mounted buttons and rockers. This allows one to keep both hands on the wheel more of the time.

If you have an older vehicle, consider fitting an aftermarket head unit that features Apple CarPlay and/or Android Auto.

Again, as with any mobile device usage on the move, distraction is the major concern. Don’t become too engrossed with what’s on-screen while using these iOS and Android apps. In fact…

Customise to minimize

…did you know that Apple CarPlay and Android Auto can both be customised? Here’s how.

Enter Apple CarPlay, and tap on your vehicle under My Cars. Then tap Customise, and tap on the red ‘dash’ icon next to each app that you wish to exclude.

The steps are similar for Android Auto. Launch it on your phone, tap “Customise launcher” and uncheck the apps you wish to exclude.

The first apps to exclude would be instant messaging apps like WhatsApp, Telegram and Signal. These are the largest sources of distraction while driving, and excluding these apps means you won’t even be notified by them while connected to Apple CarPlay or Android Auto.

This would help one keep their attention on the road more of the time. Messages can be read and replied to after you’ve done your driving.

The bottom line is that using a mobile phone in a vehicle can be very distracting. Leave mobile phone usage until after the journey is completed.

Read more automotive news at AutoApp, or check out our latest videos on Ignition Labs TV and on TikTok!

For the purpose of this article, we’ll focus on an internal combustion engine (ICE) vehicle’s 12-volt battery. This battery can be found under the bonnet in the engine compartment, or in a specific purpose-built recess in the boot.

There are some rare occasions where the 12-volt battery can be found under one of the seats in a multipurpose vehicle (MPV) or in the footwell of some supercars. There are also some higher-end vehicles which may feature two batteries instead of just one, with one usually smaller than the other.

In any case, the main function of the 12-volt battery is to provide cranking power to start your vehicle’s ICE. Its other function is to provide protection against voltage spikes and surges to the vehicle’s various computers.

With the engine running, the alternator provides electricity to the various components of a vehicle as well as charging the battery. When the engine is not running, power to run lights, the infotainment system, alarm and security system, and stereo comes from the battery.

This is why it is not a good idea to run these items for too long with the engine off, since the alternator, which is driven off the engine, is not spinning and charging the battery.

Types of Batteries

We’ll focus on the four main types of batteries that are readily available in the market. First, the two wet-cell types.

Flooded Lead Acid Battery (FLAB)

This is the oldest type, is very common and the most affordable. Most FLABs are typically comprised of six cells of lead-antimony plates, which are immersed (flooded) in a sulphuric-acid-and-water electrolyte solution.

Occasional maintenance is required for this type of battery, by checking and topping off each cell to the required level with battery water. FLABs must also be installed vertically to prevent the electrolyte from spilling.

If discharged to below 50% of the rated capacity, FLABs will experience significant shortening of their lifespan.

Enhanced Flooded Battery (EFB)

The EFB is also a common battery type. If you’ve heard of mechanics and fellow car owners talking about maintenance-free batteries, they’re likely referring to the EFB. EFBs still contain an electrolyte solution and cells of lead-antimony plates, but they’re all sealed within the outer plastic housing.

This battery type was introduced to provide more lifespan than its older FLAB ancestor. However, just like its ancestor, EFBs should be mounted vertically and should not be discharged to below 50% of their rated capacity, lest their lifespan is significantly shortened.

Next are the two common types of dry cell batteries.

Gel Cell Battery

Gel cell batteries, or gel batteries, were developed as a spill-proof version of the FLABs and EFBs. Instead of lead-antimony plates, gel batteries feature calcium-lead plates. Silica is added to the electrolyte to turn it into a spill-proof gel.

Gel batteries can be horizontally-mounted if need be, and are more shock- and vibration-resistant than FLABs and EFBs.

Gel batteries are also better suited to deep-discharge applications such as vehicles with very high-powered custom in-car audio installations, and will not wear out as quickly as FLABs and EFBs.

Absorbent Glass Mat Battery (AGM)

Although AGMs are referred to as dry-cell batteries, they’re actually quite similar to the wet-cell types. A fibreglass separator, or glass mat, absorbs the electrolyte and holds it in place.

AGMs can charge up to five times faster than their wet-cell counterparts. They’re also capable of being deep-discharged like the gel batteries. Naturally, AGMs are the most expensive battery-type of the four.

Modern cars with auto engine start/stop technology and mild-hybrid vehicles that recover energy from braking use AGM batteries. For such vehicles, replacement batteries must be of the AGM type, and the other three types should not be used.

One More Dry-Cell Battery

We haven’t forgotten lithium-based 12-volt batteries. These offer much stronger engine cranking and can charge up much quicker than FLABs and EFBs. They’re also much lighter than most other battery-types, but are much more expensive and are primarily used in weight-reduction scenarios, such as in motorcycles and motorsport applications.

Unless you know what you’re doing, there’s no need to spring for lithium-based batteries.

Replacing Batteries

The important thing to look out for is that the replacement battery must be of the same capacity as the outgoing one, meaning it needs to have the same or better cranking amps (CA) or cold cranking amps (CCA).

Cars with engine start/stop technology and/or mild hybrid drivetrains require AGM batteries, and only these should be used for replacement. Older vehicles which use FLABs or EFBs can be replaced with FLABs, EFBs and gel batteries, or even AGM if the vehicle owner is feeling generous.

Something else we’ve noticed is that regardless of battery type, the change interval in Singapore is around two years. This is likely due to our climate, driving conditions and the increased popularity of dashcams.

Yes, dashcams. A dashcam that is set to operate most if not all the time when parked can contribute to shorter battery lifespan, so keep that in mind when choosing your dashcam’s ‘parking’ setting.

Gel cell or AGM batteries would be more suitable for vehicles with permanently-wired dashcams, or you could choose to have an accessory battery pack installed specially for this purpose..

I’ve got a dead battery HALP!

Many of us have faced this dreaded scenario before.

We go to our car, unlock it, get in the driver’s seat and try to start the engine, only to be met with a solitary click or a series of clicks from the starter motor and nothing else. Sometimes, the engine may crank very slowly but doesn’t fire into life.

Here are two methods of jump-starting a vehicle with a dead battery.

1. Two-Vehicle Jump-Start

The first item needed for a two-vehicle jump-start is a pair of jumper cables. Be aware though, not all jumper cables are created equal. See the two images below:

Always use a quality set of jumper cables with thicker-gauge wires. The reason for this is because starting an ICE requires high power draw. A thinner-gauge set of jumper cables may not be able to deliver all the cranking amps needed at best, or start to overheat and present a fire hazard at worst.

Now that a suitable set of jumper cables that are sufficiently long have been obtained, get a friend to help. Doing this as a tag-team makes things so much easier.

First, drive the boosting vehicle to the one with the dead battery so that the batteries or manufacturer-specified jump-points are in relatively close proximity. In most cases, this would mean engine-bay to engine-bay.

Then, get your helper to hold one end of the jumper cables up and apart from each other.

This is important because the jaws of the jumper cable should never come into contact with each other, lest a short circuit is created that can potentially fry sensitive electronics and also start a fire.

Get the helper to connect the red cable’s jaw-end to the positive battery terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Then do the same on the boosting vehicle.

With this done, the helper will connect the other jaw-end of the black cable to a suitable body grounding point on the vehicle with the dead battery. Usually this would be a bolt on the strut tower, the grounding point on the engine itself, or the negative terminal of a manufacturer-specified jump point.

Finally, proceed to connect the the jaw-end of the black cable to the negative battery terminal of the boosting car. Both vehicles are now electrically connected to each other. We can proceed to jump-start the vehicle with the dead battery.

Get the helper to sit in the driver’s seat of the boosting vehicle, start the engine, and then bring engine revolutions up to 2,500rpm. This will allow the boosting vehicle’s alternator to charge at its rated capacity and help the jump-starting process.

Finally, jump into the dead-battery vehicle’s driver seat, turn off all unnecessary ancillaries such as the aircon, headlights and stereo, then proceed to start the engine. It should fire into life normally. If it doesn’t, try one more time and then call for a tow truck if the engine doesn’t start the second time.

With the distressed vehicle’s engine now running, disconnect the jumper cables after a couple of minutes in this order.

• negative on dead-battery vehicle
• negative on boosting vehicle
• positive on boosting vehicle
• positive on dead-battery vehicle

Remember never to allow any jumper cable-ends to contact each other or the bodywork of either vehicle during this procedure.

The dead-battery vehicle can now be driven to a workshop for a battery health check and replacement if needed.

2. Jump-Pack Jump-Start

Jump-packs come in all shapes and sizes, with the more powerful ones holding a bank of lithium cells. There are even supercapacitor-based jump packs that can charge their built-in supercapacitors with a dead battery’s remaining charge, and discharge all of that energy in a quick burst to start an engine.

Using a jump-pack is pretty simple. Connect the black cable to the negative battery terminal, and the red to the positive of the distressed vehicle. Remember not to touch any part of the bodywork with the jaw-ends.

Then turn on the jump-pack, start the engine normally, and disconnect the jump-pack.

Seven Tips to Extend Your Vehicle’s Battery Lifespan

The big question at this point is how should one care for their vehicle’s battery? Here are seven tips.

1. Avoid prolonged periods of inactivity

Modern vehicles have computers that monitor various aspects and functions. When parked, most of these computers go to sleep, but one or two may awaken at select periods to monitor certain things, like the security system. This, naturally, puts a small load on the vehicle’s battery and causes it to discharge.

If a vehicle is to be parked for more than a week, it is advisable to connect a good quality trickle charger to the battery to keep it charged up for the next engine start and commute. Trickle chargers of higher quality are also able to desulphate lead sulphate crystals built up on the battery plates to improve the battery’s health.

If you live in a HDB flat or condominium where power outlets are not available, consider disconnecting the negative terminal lead instead to cut off any electrical draw.

2. Avoid too many short journeys

Along with not letting a vehicle sit parked for too long, short start-stop journeys put a huge strain on the electrical system since the alternator would not have sufficient time to charge the battery up.

Modern vehicles also feature auto start-stop technology which kills an engine when stopped in traffic and starts it up again when one is ready to move off. Auto start-stop is an even larger strain, and combined with short journeys actually accelerate battery drain.

If your typical commute involves short journeys of five kilometres or less, or a purely street-based commute with multiple traffic-light stops , consider taking a longer drive of around 50-100km at least once a week, if not twice.

Simply jump on the nearest highway and drive around the island until you circumnavigate your way back home, or go visit a relative or friend who lives further away. This will allow the alternator to charge more optimally and the battery itself won’t be subject to heavier loads during a longer distance cruise.

3. Unplug cables and accessories

Parasitic draw is a large but often hidden cause of battery drain. Mechanics have encountered situations where a brand new battery goes flat within a month, and the parasitic-draw issue was painstakingly tracked down to an errant electrical accessory that continued to stay powered on while the vehicle was turned off.

Consider disconnecting your USB cables and devices, and any other accessories that are powered by the vehicle’s electrical system before locking and leaving your vehicle.

Which then brings us to the next tip…

4. Turn off lights when locking and leaving your vehicle

“We’ve all done it before – leaving the interior light(s) on after looking for something in your cabin or the headlights on after parking your car after a driving on a rainy day.

These lights, when left on overnight, will cause a battery drain and much frustration when the vehicle fails to start the next time.

A good habit is to always turn around when leaving to check your car if lights have been left on, and also admire how well you’ve parked.”

– Kenneth Yeo, General Manager, AutoApp

5. Keep the terminals clean

Another source of poor electrical performance in a vehicle is corroded battery terminals. We’re talking about the unsightly green powdery stuff that builds up on the terminals of FLABs and EFBs, and can cause connection issues.

A DIY remedy is to pour some hot water on the terminals to flush away the build-up. A small copper brush and degreaser can also help with cleaning duties.

Once the terminals are clean, apply a thin layer of automotive grease to the terminals to reduce the incidence of such corrosion. Also inspect the terminals once a month and during each service.

6. Have the battery tested periodically

When booking a service, you should request to have your vehicle’s battery health ascertained. This involves connecting a tester to the terminals and applying a load to see if the battery’s rated CA or CCA matches what the tester is seeing, as well as its state of charge.

Readings that are significantly lower could be indicative of a battery on its last legs.

7. Do not wait to replace an ageing battery

A tell-tale sign of a dying battery is a noticeably longer duration to crank the engine over into life. Engine cranking would also be slower and feel more strained.

Another, for more modern cars with auto start-stop technology, is the engine remains running while an advisory warning pops up on the instrument cluster saying something to the effect of “Auto Start/Stop Unavailable – Battery Charge” or similar.

One more is a bunch of unrelated error messages and codes that get thrown up once the vehicle is started.

All of these point to a battery that’s on its way out.

Since no one likes to be left stranded with a dead vehicle, have your vehicle’s battery tested periodically and changed around every two years, or when the tested CA is significantly lower than the battery’s rated CA, whichever happens first.

Overwhelmed?

Well, don’t be.

AutoApp can handle all of your car’s servicing needs and keep you updated along the way. Battery health checks can be scheduled together with your regular servicing, and we’ll even remind you when it’s due for replacement.

Our panel of partner workshops are carefully curated to offer the most optimal and timely servicing solutions for your car. We’ll also remind you when your next servicing is due so that you don’t have to worry about getting it done on time.

Other safety-related and maintenance checks such as the wear of brakes and tyres are checked during servicing with Autoapp.

Leave the hassle to us. Let go, let AutoApp.

Download the app here.

Click here for enquiries.

Read more automotive news at AutoApp, or check out our latest videos on Ignition Labs TV!

You’re driving along, just minding your own business and probably rocking out to your favourite tunes in your vehicle when suddenly, a loud “CRACK!” is heard and you see the effect of “stone meets windscreen at high velocity.” The sinking feeling in your chest and gut is palpable. Your mind starts racing.

“OH MY GAWD!!! My windscreen is cracked! What do I do now?” Well, fret not and read on.

Chipped vs. Cracked

In the best-case scenario, your vehicle’s windscreen may merely be chipped. In this case, count yourself lucky for in most instances, it can be repaired instead of needing to replace the entire glass panel. However, there are caveats.

First, the chip needs to be located at least 7cm from the edge of the windscreen. Next, if the chip is in the driver’s line of sight, it needs to be 10mm or less in size to be deemed repairable. Otherwise, chips of up to 25mm may be repairable if they’re not in the driver’s line of sight. All of this can be professionally assessed.

Once ascertained that the chip can indeed be repaired, the process starts with a potentially gut-wrenching but professionally executed micro-drilling of the chip in preparation for the next step.

Next, a special resin is injected into the drilled chip, and allowed to cure over a short period of time.

The repaired chip will then be virtually indistinguishable from the rest of the glass on the windscreen and life can proceed as normal. So, the question then is when should a chipped windscreen ideally be repaired? The answer is “as soon as possible.”

While a vehicle is in motion, the windscreen can and does flex in minute amounts, and this flex can cause an unattended chip to expand further and crack, thereby rendering repair out of the equation and replacement a necessity.

Replacement Windscreens

Assuming that the windscreen has been professionally assessed to require a replacement, it is now time to remove the old windscreen. This requires the trim around the glass to be removed, and the polyurethane adhesive beneath the glass to be carefully and methodically cut using specialised tools. Then, the old cracked windscreen can be removed.

Next, before the new windscreen goes on, some clean-up and prep work to the frame and dashboard needs to be undertaken. Any untreated corrosion or debris on the frame where the glass will sit will eventually allow water to seep through, so all of this needs to be thoroughly addressed at this stage.

A new layer of polyurethane adhesive is then laid down on the frame and the new windscreen is then carefully lifted and offered up to the vehicle. Once the installation is deemed correct, any previously-removed trim around the frame is reinstalled.

After letting it sit for a while for the adhesive to set, the windscreen is then tested for water-tightness, after which, it can be driven away. However, it will take a while longer for the adhesive to fully cure, so avoid washing the vehicle for a couple of days.

Original vs. Aftermarket Windscreens

Not all windscreens are created equal. Original windscreens can cost a pretty penny, while aftermarket windscreens may offer a more cost-effective option, possibly with the omission of a feature or two that the original had. Which option to go for will primarily come down to budget.

If your insurance policy has windscreen-replacement coverage, then the verbiage of the policy needs to be studied as to whether original replacements can be done or aftermarket windscreens are specified. If an out-of-pocket payment for the entire cost of the replacement windscreen is needed, then the aftermarket option may be more attractive depending on the situation.

Got some windscreen issues? AutoApp can help to take the hassle out of the process of windscreen repairs and replacements. Our experienced team will work with you and our panel of windscreen experts to assess the damage, study your vehicle’s insurance policy coverage and recommend the best option(s) available.

Better yet, you don’t have to leave home to get the fix done, since our Service Ambassadors will pick up your vehicle, bring it to get the repair or replacement done, and return it to you. So you can sit back, relax, and let us do the work.

Drop us a message to get the hassle-free process started!

Read more automotive news at AutoApp, or check out our latest videos on Ignition Labs TV!

Modern cars are generally well-built and durable, thanks to improvements in manufacturing technology. However, your car is only as good as its weakest link, or part in this case. Over time, wear and tear can cause various parts of a car to fail, and this can introduce strange noises while operating your vehicle.

Unusual sounds typically signal the need to replace a part. Should the issue persist, it might snowball into more severe problems. Here are some common sounds you might hear:

Engine having knocking or tapping noises

If your car’s engine is making weird knocking or pinging sounds, it could mean that the wrong fuel was used in your car. Pumping in incorrect octane levels for your car is the most common cause of this.

Thankfully, this isn’t a serious issue. Just make sure you give your car the right fuel next time you hit the pumps.

On the flip side, if you hear distinct tapping sounds coming from your engine, this could mean that your engine oil levels are low. Continue running without sufficient oil, and your engine will self-destruct down the line, so make sure it’s topped up at all times. 

It’s good practice to periodically check your oil levels too, as this can help spot potential oil leaks in your car.

Loud noises from the exhaust

Unlike the ever-annoying pop-and-bang engine tunes, a loud “boom” noise produced from your car’s exhaust could be due to a faulty catalytic converter. 

Best to get this one checked as soon as possible, as faulty catalytic converters can even cause fires if not addressed.

Metal grinding noises when braking

This is usually a tell-tale sign that your brake pads are wearing out. Ignore this, and the grinding sound can translate into more serious problems down the line.

If bare metal rubs against your rotors, this could be a costly repair bill to replace, so get those pads checked!

Metal grinding noises in general

This is different from braking, as metal-on-metal grinding sounds can mean something on your car is out of alignment. Each and every component of a car should work in unison, and two components rubbing against each other is obviously not good.

This isn’t isolated to a particular area of a car too, and the severity of the issue is all down to what component is causing the issue.

Screech or Squeal each time you turn the wheel

If each time you turn the wheel and you hear a weird squealing or screeching sound, it may indicate that your power steering fluid is low, thus causing a lot of friction.

Alternatively, if you hear this noise but the wheel turns easily, then it could be a loose or worn power steering belt instead.

Sizzling noises

Similar to that hot plate dish you just ordered from a restaurant, sizzling sounds coming from the engine bay can mean excess fluid is coming into contact with the car’s hot engine. This fluid could be oil, transmission fluid, or coolant. 

The sound can also be attributed to an overheating engine, which is caused by the lack of sufficient coolant fluid. If you hear this sound, quickly pull over at a safe spot and turn off your engine.

DO NOT attempt to open your bonnet or any component until your car has cooled down. Some fluids can easily reach extremely high temperatures, and can easily scald you if you’re not careful. 

Flowing water

Each time you apply the brakes, you might hear the sound of rushing water or fluid running through your car’s systems.

This sound might indicate that your car’s brake fluid is leaking, and without enough fluid in your system, this could lead to issues like brake loss, so it’s best to get this checked out.

Subdued cracking noises when idling

This typically means your water pump might be kicking the bucket soon.

Water pump bearings with weakened seals, in conjunction with the belt rubbing against it, may cause strange cranking sounds to emanate from the car.

Peace of mind with AutoApp

Unusual sounds should be addressed immediately, as persistent problems can result in costly repair bills down the line.

If you notice a strange sound coming from your car but do not know how to diagnose it, why not give AutoApp a try?

Best of all, AutoApp is now running a promotion for basic servicing for new customers! Score $20 off your first servicing with us with the promo code – FOMO20. Better yet, all first-time customers also receive free concierge services (Collection & Delivery only) for your first booking with us!

Limited to the first 50 customers, so get started on AutoApp’s mobile app today, and claim your discount now!

Terms & Conditions

1. Valid for first 50 New Customers only.
2. Promo code must be mentioned during booking.
3. Promo code is only valid for servicing packages.
4. Booking must be received before 31st July 2023.
5. Free Collection & Delivery (U.P. $68) will also apply for all first-time customers.
6. Prevailing $5 booking fee & GST will apply.
7. Not valid with any other offers.

Tyre rotation is one of the simplest maintenance routines one can perform for their car. It only takes up a short period of your time, and costs next to nothing to undergo. However, this simple but crucial maintenance step is often overlooked, and it can lead to uneven tyre wear over time.

Ideally, you would want to replace all four tyres at the same time. With all four tyres having even amounts of wear, it makes it easier to keep track as well.

So what does ‘tyre rotation’ mean?

The term ‘tyre rotation’ means periodically changing the position of each tyre on your vehicle. You should rotate your tyres as recommended by your vehicle manufacturer, or if that information isn’t available, a good rule of thumb would be roughly every 8,000-10,000 kilometres.

Rotating your tyres also provide good opportunities to visually inspect each wheel for damage or to check if there is sufficient air pressure. You can even have them rebalanced if you’re noticing any vibration whilst driving, or inspect their tread depth to see if you are in need of a new set.

Why is it important?

There are several reasons why tyre rotation is a simple but important affair. By routinely rotating your tyres, wear and tear are spread evenly across all four tyres, maximising your tyre set’s lifespan. Depending on the type of car you are driving, your car’s wear pattern will vary slightly.

With even tread wear across all four tyres, handling and performance characteristics are kept consistent across all four tyres, improving safety.

For those of you who drive all-wheel-drive cars (looking at you Subaru owners), evenly worn tyres can lower the stresses on the drivetrain, reducing overall wear on expensive drive components. You would rather replace some tyres than an entire driveshaft, right?

Tyre Rotation Patterns

There are several different tyre rotation patterns that exist, and each is tailored to a specific kind of car. In most applications, the standard tyre rotation pattern is front-to-rear, but here are some other patterns that could also help promote longer tyre life.

Front-to-rear

• Rear tyres swap with the front tyres, done on the same side of the vehicle
• Used in situations when wear is normal, and also when tyres have directional tread (designed to roll in one direction)

Forward cross (Front-wheel drive vehicles)

• Front tyres are swapped to the rear, done on the same side of the vehicle
• Rear tyres are crossed to opposite sides when swapped to the front
• Used in situations when rear tyres show uneven wear

X-pattern (All types of vehicles)

• Front tyres are swapped with rear tyres in a cross or X pattern (E.g. Front left tyre is swapped with the rear right tyre)
• Used in situations when there’s uneven wear

Rearward cross (All-wheel, rear-wheel or four-wheel drive vehicles)

• Rear tyres are swapped to the front, done on the same side of the vehicle
• Front tyres are crossed to opposite sides when swapped to the rear
• Used in situations when there’s uneven front tyre wear

Side-to-Side (Staggered ‘differently sized’ wheels)

• Both front and rear tyres are swapped to opposite sides of the vehicle
• Used in situations when your front and rear tyres have different tyre widths and sizes

Schedule your tyre rotation appointment with AutoApp

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It’s a rite of passage every petrolhead goes through, and it probably starts with “I heard about this tip back then about…”.

With petrol prices ever increasing, plus the onslaught of inflation and global conflicts, car owners worldwide are always looking for ways to help increase the fuel efficiency of their cars, in a bid to return to petrol stations with less of an empty wallet.

While there are certain truths being passed around when it comes to saving fuel, there are also several “myths” that you can dismiss as being true. Conveniently, the AutoApp team has broken down some of these for you.

Myth 1: Keep your car idling, it saves more petrol than restarting it

Picture this. You’re early to your kid’s tuition class, and you are waiting in the car park. Instead of shutting down the car, you keep it running, thinking that while idling you are saving fuel.

Sorry to burst your bubble pal, but leaving your engine running while your car is idle actually uses up more petrol than it is required to restart it. A study conducted by the Environmental Defense Fund, a non-profit organisation based in the United States, you should turn off your car’s ignition if you’re waiting for more than 10 seconds.

While idling, you consume roughly between 1/3 and 1/2 of a litre of fuel, depending on your vehicle. Plus, modern vehicles with direct fuel injection and electronic ignitions start more easily and suffer less wear and tear in the process.

Plus, idling in enclosed spaces is illegal anyway, so next time it’s a good practice to switch your vehicle off.

Myth 2: Coasting in Neutral helps save petrol

While yes, it is true that when you place your car in neutral, the engine starts to idle and consumes a small amount of petrol. But, you may not know that as you start slowing down, the engine begins to work harder to prevent the vehicle from stalling.

This is because the wheels are not turning the engine, so the engine has to inject fuel into the combustion chambers in order to maintain idle RPM.

Therefore, with modern automatics that are designed to be as efficient as possible, keeping your car in Drive will save you more petrol.

MYTH 3: Air-conditioning vs winding down windows

There’s nothing quite like the feeling of rolling down your windows on a cool day and feeling the cool breeze on the open road. It does feel good, and you would think that it is an effective method in saving fuel too, as you may not need to use your air-conditioning.

But, when your vehicle’s windows are down, you allow air to flow into the vehicle instead of where it would traditionally flow over, thereby inducing more drag. Like mini parachutes, these small pockets of air can produce enough drag that inadvertently affects your vehicle’s overall drag coefficient.

For best fuel efficiency, you would need to keep the windows up and turn off your air-conditioning. This is pretty extreme though, and we do not recommend it, especially in our hot and humid climate.

Thus, our suggestion would be to turn on your air-conditioning, but keep the temperature and fan speed to respectable levels. This will enable you to be efficient, and save fuel in the process! Don’t blast, or your fuel will go fast.

MYTH 4: Cruise control can help to save petrol

This is true to a certain extent. While cruise control might be effective on flat roads when your vehicle maintains a constant speed, rapid and sudden acceleration on steeper terrain may burn out a lot of fuel.

Since the vehicle is given a speed to maintain, its internal computers will try their best to keep up, even if it means revving the engine to death.

If you’re planning to use cruise control whilst driving, be cautious and anticipate any upcoming incline. Before cruise control can intervene, you can try applying slight pressure to the accelerator pedal slowly and as needed. This allows you to maintain speed without sudden engine revs induced by the cruise control system.

MYTH 5: The smaller the car, the more frugal it is

If you were to look at cars purely by body size, one popular belief is that smaller cars get better fuel efficiency numbers due to their lighter builds.

However, with technology improving by leaps and bounds over the recent decades, a car’s efficiency is now determined by various other factors such as under-the-hood performance, materials, and body aerodynamics, not just its size.

Our advice is to get a vehicle that fits your needs. A large SUV sounds excellent on paper, but it doesn’t really make sense when you’re driving it alone all the time with no one else to ferry around.

MYTH 6: Petrol consumption increases as a car gets older

Wear and tear is perfectly normal on a vehicle, especially if it’s of an older age. However, as long as your car is well maintained, fuel consumption over time should remain the same, or at the very least, increase ever so slightly.

Regular maintenance will keep your engine running at peak efficiency, so don’t worry about getting about an older car!

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Have no fear, AutoApp has you covered on that. This article breaks down the common aspects you can look out for when shopping for that next set of wheels. Make an informed decision, and you’ll be smiling all the way to the bank with your new ride.

Engine

The engine is the very heart of the car and is obviously a key component. Over time, stresses induced when driving will invite huge amounts of wear and tear, particularly if an engine hasn’t been regularly serviced.

When dealing with a used car, it is a good practice to turn the engine over and let it idle for a short duration. This enables you to hear for any potential defects that might exist. Odd sounds are not something that would come from a prim and proper engine.

As an additional safety net, when possible you can also have a mechanic look over the engine bay, to ensure that all is in good order before committing to that big purchase.

Leaks

One of the easiest things to spot on a used car are fluid leaks. There are numerous fluids that run in, around and under the engine, and a well-maintained car shouldn’t spring a leak. 

When you view a used car, check underneath for signs of any fluid leak. If there’s oil on the ground under the car or lots of sludge under the car, chances are an oil leak has occurred.

It’s good practice to open the bonnet too and check all around the engine for other leaks. Oil leaks are usually brown or black in nature. Coolant, also known as antifreeze in some countries, is usually green, pink or yellow, often denoted by their almost fluorescent-like appearance. Gearbox and power steering fluid are both reddish brown in colour. How to tell them apart? Well, gearbox fluid is usually thicker in consistency, while power steering fluid is more viscous.

If you see any such leak on the car, it’s worth getting it seen by an expert so you know the exact problem, and what it’ll cost to fix. Fluids may seem like a trivial matter, but can sometimes cost a bomb to repair.

Oil

Apart from leaks, checking the oil in an engine is an extremely easy task that shouldn’t be forgotten during the buying process. Pop out the dipstick, and check if the reading is at the correct level. The oil shouldn’t be discoloured or has the wrong consistency too.

If it’s possible, check to see if the oil filter has been properly serviced, and not something that has been left there since the car left the showroom.

Head gasket

This one is a little more advanced, but it’s worth a read if you want to make sure an engine is in proper working order. The head gasket is a thin engine component that sits between the lower and upper parts of the engine. Its purpose is to prevent coolant or engine oil from entering the engine’s cylinders, much like a seal.

A blown head gasket is never a good sign, as this can cause a variety of problems. Cars suffering from this may experience a smoky exhaust, loss of power, a rough-sounding engine, or even total engine failure.

So how do you go about examining this? Make sure the engine is cool, then proceed to remove the oil cap from the top of the engine. If you see white or light brown sludge with a sauce-like consistency, you’re probably looking at the aftermath of a blown head gasket. At that juncture, it’s probably worth walking away from the deal. A blown head gasket may conceal a lot more problems underneath, and it’s hard to know what other damage the problem has caused.

Exhaust smoke colours 

Turn over the engine and walk to the exhausts of the car. A little puff of smoke when cold starting an engine is usually nothing serious, but watch the exhaust for a few minutes as it’s a telltale sign of a problem if it remains. 

Blue smoke means the engine is burning oil, which could indicate a blown head gasket or problems with the internal engine seals. 

White smoke can be harder to spot as it is hard to distinguish from steam, but excessive white smoke can also point to a head gasket failure. Unlike blue smoke, it is now coolant entering the cylinders and being burned with fuel.

Black smoke, the least concerning of the three, is usually caused by the engine burning too much fuel. It’s usually easier to rectify than the other two, but should be addressed too regardless in order to get a healthy running engine.

Bodywork

Examining the exterior of a car is one of the easiest visual inspections you can do. What you’re looking out for are any signs of repainting or replacement panels that might suggest the car has previously been in an accident.

For older cars, it is also a good practice to check for rust on all metal body panels. An early indication is bubbling under the paint but it can lead to visible rust if untreated. 

Wheels and tyres

Check all four wheels, plus the spare wheel if the car has one, and look for signs of damage to each wheel. Kerb rash is a common sight and isn’t usually a serious problem, but wheels that are bent or have large dents in the rims will need repairing or replacing.

Check all of the threads of the tyres too. They should be free from cuts, splits, gouges or bulges. Tyres are the only thing in contact with the road, so keeping them in good condition is essential for safety. If you see any of these signs, they’ll need replacing. 

Interior

One good tip we can give is to inspect the condition of a car’s interior. This is a good indication of whether the car’s mileage and odometer are genuine. A car with 20,000 kilometres on the clock should have an interior that looks almost like new. If the car looks tired and worn, you know something is up.

Of course, checking for rips or tears in the upholstery and cabin is good. But, what’s more, important is to check that all of the equipment works, from the lights to the HVAC system. All electrical features should be in working order. Budget for repairs if you spot anything amiss. 

Mileage and warning lights

While performing the other engine checks listed above, it is also good to check if there are any visible warning lights on the car.

Cars that have dashboards that light up like Christmas trees are definitely a sign you should probably stay away.

Take a test drive

You can only know so much when the car is static and parked. Whenever possible, request to take a test drive. Some buyers may not entertain this option, but be firm with them. Any reputable dealer will be happy to accompany you on a drive.

Try the car at a variety of speeds, and listen out for engine noise and any irritating rattles. Make sure the brakes and clutch are responsive and in full working order, too.

Used car documentation

The holy grail of used car purchases is a folder with all of the car’s documentation. This enables you to check the car’s history for any work carried out and all parts fitted. Plus it allows you to check the mileage against what’s displayed on the dashboard.

A service book is a valuable document too, as you can see who has serviced the car, and when.

If you are still not sure, fret not! AutoApp is here to help. Our team of experts can help assess your car, and determine any faults that may be present. Our trusted service translates to peace of mind for you!

Less than 20 years ago, vans and Light Commercial Vehicles (LCVs) could be owned and operated without having to register under a business. This pushed many potential car buyers at the time into van ownership instead, due to them being more affordable, but also due in no small part to the large gulf between petrol and diesel prices and the relatively insanely-good fuel economy figures of turbodiesel engines.

As all these associated benefits caused a massive influx of vans on our roads, this loophole was quickly plugged. From then-on, one had to register a van under a business and go through all the related costs, paperwork and hassles thereof. However, owning a van was still popular back then.

With record-high passenger car COEs and petrol prices being what they are, is it time to revisit the proposition of van ownership as an alternative to a car?

The Bureaucracy

The first step toward van ownership, for those who are not business owners, is to register a sole proprietorship, or sole-prop, at a minimum. That entails a one-time $115 registration fee, and an annual renewal fee of $30. That’s the bare minimum. There will certainly be other costs associated with running a sole-prop, but those are variable depending on what one decides to actually do with their newly-registered business.

Comparo Contenders

For this thought-exercise in van ownership, we decided to select two compact vans and a relatively-comparable passenger vehicle whose claimed fuel economy numbers are at least 20km/L (5-litres/100km).

This was done for two reasons.

First, it makes more sense to own a van with a modern turbodiesel engine. With lots of torque available from low revs, it makes hauling barang-barang that much easier. This also translates to more flexible and relaxed day-to-day driving on the road.

Which then brings us to the three natural contenders. In the van ownership corner, we have the ubiquitous Volkswagen Caddy, well known for its good fuel economy, torquey on-road characteristics and decent haulage ability. Its chief competitor is the Peugeot Partner. Although not as popular, the Pug comes into this comparo with similar torque and identical fuel economy numbers, but from a smaller engine than the VeeDub.

Representing the passenger vehicle is the recently-reviewed Toyota Sienta Hybrid Elegance. For one, this mini-MPV can morph into a minivan by stowing the seats for barang-barang haulage duties. For another, it boasts really good fuel economy numbers as our own tests have shown. The Sienta Hybrid may not be as torquey as the two compact-van contenders, but has proven itself to be really easy to drive and very likeable.

Item Description	Volkswagen Caddy	Peugeot Partner	Toyota Sienta Hybrid Elegance
Engine Capacity (cc)	1,968	1,499	1,490
Power (hp)	121	129	114
Torque (Nm)	320	300	120
Fuel Economy (claimed)	21.7km/L	21.7km/L	25km/L

Financial Sparring, BEGIN!

First up – purchase price. This is where both van contenders slap almost $30,000 worth of silly outta the Toyota Sienta Hybrid, and it is this sort of price differential that would likely cause one to consider van ownership in the first place. However, the grass may not always be greener on the other side.

Both the VeeDub and Pug boast claimed fuel economy numbers of 21.7km/L, which is impressive, but the Sienta Hybrid comes back from the mat to deliver a reeling blow to both compact vans with its 25km/L claimed consumption. DSSH!

This blow is followed up by another, exacerbated by current fuel prices. At the time of this article, SPC’s list price for RON95 petrol was $2.73/L and diesel at $2.70/L – as close as makes no difference. In other words, over an annual mileage of 20,000km, it is actually cheaper to run the Sienta Hybrid versus the two compact vans to the tune of about $300, or 25 buckeroos per month. DOOSH!

Things swing the other way when it comes to road-tax renewal, with both the VeeDub and Pug ‘outsmarting’ the Sienta by almost $300. Ah-HA!

However, that smugness doesn’t last long. Speaking of “The Man”, vehicle inspection fees are the same for both light goods vehicles and passenger cars at $67.41 per inspection, but the difference here is that a brand new car has its first inspection at the end of Year 3 and once every two years thereafter, but vans need to be inspected annually. Ka-CHING ka-CHING!

Not only that, but many, including yours truly, are unaware that it actually costs more to season-park a van at a HDB carpark as compared to a passenger vehicle by $900 per annum. OUCH!

Finally there’s the Preferred Additional Registration Fee or PARF value of a vehicle when it is de-registered at the end of 10 years. The vans have none, while the Sienta Hybrid has some. Sad trombone tune.

Have a gander at the table below:

Item Description	Volkswagen Caddy	Peugeot Partner	Toyota Sienta Hybrid Elegance
Purchase Price	$137,000	$135,000 (est. with COE)	$161,000 (rounded up)
Preferred Additional Registration Fee (PARF) Value	$0	$0	$15,421
Average Annual Depreciation Over 10-year Ownership	$13,700	$13,500	$14,558
Annual Fuel Cost (via claimed economy & 20K km mileage)	$2,488.48	$2,488.48	$2,184
Annual Road Tax	$426	$426	$714
Average Annual Inspection Cost Over 10-year Ownership	$67.41	$67.41	$26.97
Annual Season Parking Charges (HDB MSCP)	$2,220 ($185/month)	$2,220 ($185/month)	$1,320 ($110/month)
Sole Prop Fees Averaged per Annum over 10 Years	$38.50	$38.50	$0
Annual Cost (excluding insurance & servicing)	$18,940.39	$18,740.39	$18,802.97

All three vehicles come within spitting distance of one another in terms of annual cost excluding insurance, servicing and other running costs such as but not limited to parking charges at other carparks.

But There’s More To It…

Consider that vans must legally be fitted with commercial vehicle tyres, meaning when it comes to tyre-change time, one needs to go to tyre shops that carry such tyres. While they may look similar in terms of size, commercial vehicle tyres are load- and speed-rated for haulage duties while passenger car tyres may not be.

Also consider a trip across the border. With the Sienta Hybrid, one simply needs to get in and drive across with passport in hand. Not so for a G-plate van, which essentially means either complying with Malaysian regulations or renting a passenger car for the duration of the cross-border excursion.

And then there’s the little matter of speed limits. Vans are limited to 70km/h on Singapore’s highways, whereas passenger vehicles can travel at the posted speed limit which is often higher. Imagine the “beep beep beep” going off every time one creeps just a little over 70km/h in a van. Now imagine doing 90km/h on Malaysian highways with the beeper constantly beeping and ruining one’s sanity.

Also, while vans are great at haulage duties, what if one needs to ferry a flock of friends for a night out and about in town instead? Not a great idea. In the Sienta Hybrid, one merely needs to re-deploy the seats and everyone’s good to go.

All Said and Done…

… van ownership may not be the smarter financial choice that it once was for the above reasons. While looking good on paper at first glance, there definitely is a deeper consideration that’s needed.

While it may seem like we’re being harsh on van ownership, it is only because of the financial comparison. All of us here at the office like vans very much and would rock them daily if there was a practical purpose that outweighed the financial considerations above, or if the money-numbers were drastically in favour of vans as they once were nearly 20 years ago.

Looking for car reviews? Read them here!

With COE prices skyrocketing to oblivion, new cars are becoming less obtainable to the majority of buyers. As such, they may be looking into either renewing their current car’s COE, or shopping in the pre-owned market.

While older cars tend to have lesser features, they can be just as reliable as their brand-new counterparts. As long as you don’t neglect regular servicing, they can happily pur along our roads for years to come. Here are some common faults that older cars tend to have, and how to avoid them.

Regular maintenance is key

With thousands of components working together in tandem, there’s so much that can go wrong in an engine, especially in older cars where components may be worn down. Thus, we feel it’s vital to get your older car looked at by a mechanic or workshop at least once a year.

The last thing you want is an unexpected problem to pop up when you are out for a nice drive. Being stranded at the side of the road is never a fun thing to experience, so to avoid this it’s always in your best interest to bring your car in for regular servicing.

Oil’s well that ends well

If you can’t remember the last time you changed your oil, go do it now. Healthy cars are regularly serviced, and arguably one of the easiest things to replace is engine oil.

Over time, oil can lose its viscosity, and you don’t want black sludge to be running around in your engine, clogging vital engine components. Worse still, if you do not have sufficient oil circulating in your engine, this can lead to overheating or accelerated wear and tear.

If you are unsure of what grade of oil to put in, consult your car’s owner’s manual for the recommended type. You can either take your car to a trusted mechanic or if you aren’t afraid to get your hands dirty, oil changes are a great way to enter the world of DIY auto repairs.

Keeping it cool

Your engine is making thousands of explosions a day to keep you moving down the road. Understandably, things will get pretty hot, which is why cars have cooling systems.

While it doesn’t need to be replaced as often, coolant is just as important as oil in an engine. Make sure your car is topped off with coolant, and it’s always good to keep an eye on your temperature gauge for older cars. If there are any leaks coming from your radiator or hoses, get them replaced immediately. Without cooling, your car may suffer catastrophic failures, and blown engine parts are not something you would want to deal with.

Timing is everything

Most modern cars have a timing belt or chain which ensures all moving parts of the engine run smoothly. But, improper maintenance or worn belts can kill your car’s engine in a matter of seconds.

As a general guide, timing belts need to be replaced every 100,000 to 150,000 kilometres, while chains are more robust and need to be changed less frequently, with each needing to be replaced only every 130,000 to 200,000 kilometres, depending on your engine or car.

This isn’t going to be a cheap workshop visit, but once you get it over with, you won’t have to worry about another one for years.

Invest in the best tyres and brakes

We’ve all experienced this before – you ran over something while driving and your tyre is now a shredded mess. You obviously need a new tyre, and you hesitate on spending hundreds of dollars on a reputable brand, so you cheap out and get a tyre with a questionable brand. You do save money now, but going cheap on essentials like tyres can cost you more further down the line.

Tyres are one of the most important parts of a car. These round pieces of black rubber are the only things connecting your car to the road and are built to be able to keep you safe, even in precarious driving conditions. While they are cheaper, off-brand tyres may wear out faster or unevenly. Plus, without proper certification, these tyres may not be able to work effectively in situations like emergency braking or aquaplaning. To stay safe on the roads, it is advisable to get tyre brands that are reputable.

This rule also applies to your brakes. They’re the only things that can stop your car effectively, and having sub-par brakes may affect your car’s effective braking distance in emergencies. If you love your car, pay a little more and get the best. Trust us, it can save you money over the long haul!

Don’t be afraid to drive it

Say you own an older, high-mileage car. Yes, it is going to have its quirks, but contrary to popular belief, driving your car regularly can actually prolong its life.

A car that’s driven regularly is definitely a happy car, and driving it can keep things like hoses and gaskets from drying out, while essential vehicle fluids like oil, and coolants keep metal parts sufficiently lubricated and cool.

If you neglect an old car for a while, chances are you’ll start seeing leaks, and it is not an enjoyable experience to frequently visit workshops. So do your car a favour, and drive it regularly.

Need easy and simple car maintenance?

Here at AutoApp, we have lots of specialists who are able to take care of your car’s regular servicing. Best of all, you don’t even have to do anything! Just book an appointment via our mobile application, and sit back and relax as our team handles all the nitty gritty for you. It’s that simple!

Check out what NOT to do with an automatic gearbox, and more car maintenance tips and tricks.