We’re not lawyers, so do your own research before deciding anything. Disclaimer done, here’s what you need to know about mobile phone usage in your vehicle.

The legalese is as follows – holding a mobile communication device and operating any of its communicative functions while underway on the road or any other public place is an offence.

The penalty? A fine of up to $1,000, or imprisonment of up to six months, or both.

In other words, the driver has to be performing ALL of the following:

1. Holding a mobile phone
2. The vehicle is being driven, as opposed to standing still
3. The driver is using any function of the mobile phone.

Then, and only then, has an offence considered to have been committed.

So here’s the rub.

Let’s say you’re just holding your mobile phone while driving, but it’s turned off. That doesn’t meet the three criteria above… UNTIL a message, call, notification, etc. wakes up the screen, in which case it is considered an offence.

Bottom line – put the phone away while driving. As long as it’s out of your hands, you are fine.

Can I hold and use my phone at a red light?

Since the car is not underway, it doesn’t meet all three criteria above. The problem with this is becoming distracted by the phone.

How many times have we encountered the lights turning green, only to have some numbskull still sitting stationary at the lights for an extended period?

What about if I use my phone while it’s in a holder?

Again, the problem here is the distraction the phone creates. Although using a phone while it’s in a holder does not meet the three criteria listed above, one can still be nailed for driving without due care or reasonable consideration if the cops deem it necessary.

Worse still, if an accident arising from distracted driving results in injury or even death, then expect the charge to be much more severe.

But… but… but… I need to use my phone!

Pull over and park at the nearest carpark. Here you can use your phone to your heart’s content.

Look, we all have busy lives to run, but be considerate and don’t ruin anyone’s life, including yours. No point crying over spilt milk when something untoward happens.

Handsfree Driving

The advent of in-car connectivity means hands-free driving is now even more simple and easy to use. We’re talking Apple CarPlay and Android Auto.

Not only do they play your music or podcasts over the car’s stereo, but they can also manage incoming calls and texts, reading the latter out loud if so chosen.

Certain functionalities such as receiving and ending a call, and adjusting volume can be done via steering wheel-mounted buttons and rockers. This allows one to keep both hands on the wheel more of the time.

If you have an older vehicle, consider fitting an aftermarket head unit that features Apple CarPlay and/or Android Auto.

Again, as with any mobile device usage on the move, distraction is the major concern. Don’t become too engrossed with what’s on-screen while using these iOS and Android apps. In fact…

Customise to minimize

…did you know that Apple CarPlay and Android Auto can both be customised? Here’s how.

Enter Apple CarPlay, and tap on your vehicle under My Cars. Then tap Customise, and tap on the red ‘dash’ icon next to each app that you wish to exclude.

The steps are similar for Android Auto. Launch it on your phone, tap “Customise launcher” and uncheck the apps you wish to exclude.

The first apps to exclude would be instant messaging apps like WhatsApp, Telegram and Signal. These are the largest sources of distraction while driving, and excluding these apps means you won’t even be notified by them while connected to Apple CarPlay or Android Auto.

This would help one keep their attention on the road more of the time. Messages can be read and replied to after you’ve done your driving.

The bottom line is that using a mobile phone in a vehicle can be very distracting. Leave mobile phone usage until after the journey is completed.

Read more automotive news at AutoApp, or check out our latest videos on Ignition Labs TV and on TikTok!

For the purpose of this article, we’ll focus on an internal combustion engine (ICE) vehicle’s 12-volt battery. This battery can be found under the bonnet in the engine compartment, or in a specific purpose-built recess in the boot.

There are some rare occasions where the 12-volt battery can be found under one of the seats in a multipurpose vehicle (MPV) or in the footwell of some supercars. There are also some higher-end vehicles which may feature two batteries instead of just one, with one usually smaller than the other.

In any case, the main function of the 12-volt battery is to provide cranking power to start your vehicle’s ICE. Its other function is to provide protection against voltage spikes and surges to the vehicle’s various computers.

With the engine running, the alternator provides electricity to the various components of a vehicle as well as charging the battery. When the engine is not running, power to run lights, the infotainment system, alarm and security system, and stereo comes from the battery.

This is why it is not a good idea to run these items for too long with the engine off, since the alternator, which is driven off the engine, is not spinning and charging the battery.

Types of Batteries

We’ll focus on the four main types of batteries that are readily available in the market. First, the two wet-cell types.

Flooded Lead Acid Battery (FLAB)

This is the oldest type, is very common and the most affordable. Most FLABs are typically comprised of six cells of lead-antimony plates, which are immersed (flooded) in a sulphuric-acid-and-water electrolyte solution.

Occasional maintenance is required for this type of battery, by checking and topping off each cell to the required level with battery water. FLABs must also be installed vertically to prevent the electrolyte from spilling.

If discharged to below 50% of the rated capacity, FLABs will experience significant shortening of their lifespan.

Enhanced Flooded Battery (EFB)

The EFB is also a common battery type. If you’ve heard of mechanics and fellow car owners talking about maintenance-free batteries, they’re likely referring to the EFB. EFBs still contain an electrolyte solution and cells of lead-antimony plates, but they’re all sealed within the outer plastic housing.

This battery type was introduced to provide more lifespan than its older FLAB ancestor. However, just like its ancestor, EFBs should be mounted vertically and should not be discharged to below 50% of their rated capacity, lest their lifespan is significantly shortened.

Next are the two common types of dry cell batteries.

Gel Cell Battery

Gel cell batteries, or gel batteries, were developed as a spill-proof version of the FLABs and EFBs. Instead of lead-antimony plates, gel batteries feature calcium-lead plates. Silica is added to the electrolyte to turn it into a spill-proof gel.

Gel batteries can be horizontally-mounted if need be, and are more shock- and vibration-resistant than FLABs and EFBs.

Gel batteries are also better suited to deep-discharge applications such as vehicles with very high-powered custom in-car audio installations, and will not wear out as quickly as FLABs and EFBs.

Absorbent Glass Mat Battery (AGM)

Although AGMs are referred to as dry-cell batteries, they’re actually quite similar to the wet-cell types. A fibreglass separator, or glass mat, absorbs the electrolyte and holds it in place.

AGMs can charge up to five times faster than their wet-cell counterparts. They’re also capable of being deep-discharged like the gel batteries. Naturally, AGMs are the most expensive battery-type of the four.

Modern cars with auto engine start/stop technology and mild-hybrid vehicles that recover energy from braking use AGM batteries. For such vehicles, replacement batteries must be of the AGM type, and the other three types should not be used.

One More Dry-Cell Battery

We haven’t forgotten lithium-based 12-volt batteries. These offer much stronger engine cranking and can charge up much quicker than FLABs and EFBs. They’re also much lighter than most other battery-types, but are much more expensive and are primarily used in weight-reduction scenarios, such as in motorcycles and motorsport applications.

Unless you know what you’re doing, there’s no need to spring for lithium-based batteries.

Replacing Batteries

The important thing to look out for is that the replacement battery must be of the same capacity as the outgoing one, meaning it needs to have the same or better cranking amps (CA) or cold cranking amps (CCA).

Cars with engine start/stop technology and/or mild hybrid drivetrains require AGM batteries, and only these should be used for replacement. Older vehicles which use FLABs or EFBs can be replaced with FLABs, EFBs and gel batteries, or even AGM if the vehicle owner is feeling generous.

Something else we’ve noticed is that regardless of battery type, the change interval in Singapore is around two years. This is likely due to our climate, driving conditions and the increased popularity of dashcams.

Yes, dashcams. A dashcam that is set to operate most if not all the time when parked can contribute to shorter battery lifespan, so keep that in mind when choosing your dashcam’s ‘parking’ setting.

Gel cell or AGM batteries would be more suitable for vehicles with permanently-wired dashcams, or you could choose to have an accessory battery pack installed specially for this purpose..

I’ve got a dead battery HALP!

Many of us have faced this dreaded scenario before.

We go to our car, unlock it, get in the driver’s seat and try to start the engine, only to be met with a solitary click or a series of clicks from the starter motor and nothing else. Sometimes, the engine may crank very slowly but doesn’t fire into life.

Here are two methods of jump-starting a vehicle with a dead battery.

1. Two-Vehicle Jump-Start

The first item needed for a two-vehicle jump-start is a pair of jumper cables. Be aware though, not all jumper cables are created equal. See the two images below:

Always use a quality set of jumper cables with thicker-gauge wires. The reason for this is because starting an ICE requires high power draw. A thinner-gauge set of jumper cables may not be able to deliver all the cranking amps needed at best, or start to overheat and present a fire hazard at worst.

Now that a suitable set of jumper cables that are sufficiently long have been obtained, get a friend to help. Doing this as a tag-team makes things so much easier.

First, drive the boosting vehicle to the one with the dead battery so that the batteries or manufacturer-specified jump-points are in relatively close proximity. In most cases, this would mean engine-bay to engine-bay.

Then, get your helper to hold one end of the jumper cables up and apart from each other.

This is important because the jaws of the jumper cable should never come into contact with each other, lest a short circuit is created that can potentially fry sensitive electronics and also start a fire.

Get the helper to connect the red cable’s jaw-end to the positive battery terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Then do the same on the boosting vehicle.

With this done, the helper will connect the other jaw-end of the black cable to a suitable body grounding point on the vehicle with the dead battery. Usually this would be a bolt on the strut tower, the grounding point on the engine itself, or the negative terminal of a manufacturer-specified jump point.

Finally, proceed to connect the the jaw-end of the black cable to the negative battery terminal of the boosting car. Both vehicles are now electrically connected to each other. We can proceed to jump-start the vehicle with the dead battery.

Get the helper to sit in the driver’s seat of the boosting vehicle, start the engine, and then bring engine revolutions up to 2,500rpm. This will allow the boosting vehicle’s alternator to charge at its rated capacity and help the jump-starting process.

Finally, jump into the dead-battery vehicle’s driver seat, turn off all unnecessary ancillaries such as the aircon, headlights and stereo, then proceed to start the engine. It should fire into life normally. If it doesn’t, try one more time and then call for a tow truck if the engine doesn’t start the second time.

With the distressed vehicle’s engine now running, disconnect the jumper cables after a couple of minutes in this order.

• negative on dead-battery vehicle
• negative on boosting vehicle
• positive on boosting vehicle
• positive on dead-battery vehicle

Remember never to allow any jumper cable-ends to contact each other or the bodywork of either vehicle during this procedure.

The dead-battery vehicle can now be driven to a workshop for a battery health check and replacement if needed.

2. Jump-Pack Jump-Start

Jump-packs come in all shapes and sizes, with the more powerful ones holding a bank of lithium cells. There are even supercapacitor-based jump packs that can charge their built-in supercapacitors with a dead battery’s remaining charge, and discharge all of that energy in a quick burst to start an engine.

Using a jump-pack is pretty simple. Connect the black cable to the negative battery terminal, and the red to the positive of the distressed vehicle. Remember not to touch any part of the bodywork with the jaw-ends.

Then turn on the jump-pack, start the engine normally, and disconnect the jump-pack.

Seven Tips to Extend Your Vehicle’s Battery Lifespan

The big question at this point is how should one care for their vehicle’s battery? Here are seven tips.

1. Avoid prolonged periods of inactivity

Modern vehicles have computers that monitor various aspects and functions. When parked, most of these computers go to sleep, but one or two may awaken at select periods to monitor certain things, like the security system. This, naturally, puts a small load on the vehicle’s battery and causes it to discharge.

If a vehicle is to be parked for more than a week, it is advisable to connect a good quality trickle charger to the battery to keep it charged up for the next engine start and commute. Trickle chargers of higher quality are also able to desulphate lead sulphate crystals built up on the battery plates to improve the battery’s health.

If you live in a HDB flat or condominium where power outlets are not available, consider disconnecting the negative terminal lead instead to cut off any electrical draw.

2. Avoid too many short journeys

Along with not letting a vehicle sit parked for too long, short start-stop journeys put a huge strain on the electrical system since the alternator would not have sufficient time to charge the battery up.

Modern vehicles also feature auto start-stop technology which kills an engine when stopped in traffic and starts it up again when one is ready to move off. Auto start-stop is an even larger strain, and combined with short journeys actually accelerate battery drain.

If your typical commute involves short journeys of five kilometres or less, or a purely street-based commute with multiple traffic-light stops , consider taking a longer drive of around 50-100km at least once a week, if not twice.

Simply jump on the nearest highway and drive around the island until you circumnavigate your way back home, or go visit a relative or friend who lives further away. This will allow the alternator to charge more optimally and the battery itself won’t be subject to heavier loads during a longer distance cruise.

3. Unplug cables and accessories

Parasitic draw is a large but often hidden cause of battery drain. Mechanics have encountered situations where a brand new battery goes flat within a month, and the parasitic-draw issue was painstakingly tracked down to an errant electrical accessory that continued to stay powered on while the vehicle was turned off.

Consider disconnecting your USB cables and devices, and any other accessories that are powered by the vehicle’s electrical system before locking and leaving your vehicle.

Which then brings us to the next tip…

4. Turn off lights when locking and leaving your vehicle

“We’ve all done it before – leaving the interior light(s) on after looking for something in your cabin or the headlights on after parking your car after a driving on a rainy day.

These lights, when left on overnight, will cause a battery drain and much frustration when the vehicle fails to start the next time.

A good habit is to always turn around when leaving to check your car if lights have been left on, and also admire how well you’ve parked.”

– Kenneth Yeo, General Manager, AutoApp

5. Keep the terminals clean

Another source of poor electrical performance in a vehicle is corroded battery terminals. We’re talking about the unsightly green powdery stuff that builds up on the terminals of FLABs and EFBs, and can cause connection issues.

A DIY remedy is to pour some hot water on the terminals to flush away the build-up. A small copper brush and degreaser can also help with cleaning duties.

Once the terminals are clean, apply a thin layer of automotive grease to the terminals to reduce the incidence of such corrosion. Also inspect the terminals once a month and during each service.

6. Have the battery tested periodically

When booking a service, you should request to have your vehicle’s battery health ascertained. This involves connecting a tester to the terminals and applying a load to see if the battery’s rated CA or CCA matches what the tester is seeing, as well as its state of charge.

Readings that are significantly lower could be indicative of a battery on its last legs.

7. Do not wait to replace an ageing battery

A tell-tale sign of a dying battery is a noticeably longer duration to crank the engine over into life. Engine cranking would also be slower and feel more strained.

Another, for more modern cars with auto start-stop technology, is the engine remains running while an advisory warning pops up on the instrument cluster saying something to the effect of “Auto Start/Stop Unavailable – Battery Charge” or similar.

One more is a bunch of unrelated error messages and codes that get thrown up once the vehicle is started.

All of these point to a battery that’s on its way out.

Since no one likes to be left stranded with a dead vehicle, have your vehicle’s battery tested periodically and changed around every two years, or when the tested CA is significantly lower than the battery’s rated CA, whichever happens first.

Overwhelmed?

Well, don’t be.

AutoApp can handle all of your car’s servicing needs and keep you updated along the way. Battery health checks can be scheduled together with your regular servicing, and we’ll even remind you when it’s due for replacement.

Our panel of partner workshops are carefully curated to offer the most optimal and timely servicing solutions for your car. We’ll also remind you when your next servicing is due so that you don’t have to worry about getting it done on time.

Other safety-related and maintenance checks such as the wear of brakes and tyres are checked during servicing with Autoapp.

Leave the hassle to us. Let go, let AutoApp.

Download the app here.

Click here for enquiries.

Read more automotive news at AutoApp, or check out our latest videos on Ignition Labs TV!

The Budget 2023 speech just concluded earlier this week, and this presents some new changes to the Additional Registration Fee (ARF) system we are currently adopting. Deputy Prime Minister Lawrence Wong has since announced the Land Transport Authority (LTA) will increase the ARF values for new and used cars with an Open Market Value (OMV) of more than S$40,000.

OMV refers to the cost of the vehicle when it reached our shores, and before any COE, import levies, or other taxes are applied to the car.

Now, before everyone grabs their pitchforks and rallies on social media for yet another “give chicken wing, take whole chicken back” debate, if you’re not a luxury car buyer, there is no need to panic. Mainstream cars that make up the majority of car purchases in Singapore will remain fairly unaffected, as your run-of-the-mill Toyota or Honda typically has an OMV of S$20,000 or less. 

Conveniently, LTA has already curated a handy chart to document the changes.

If you don’t want to reference the chart, basically with this new scheme, the more expensive your car is, the more you will have to fork out. And don’t think you can escape this either, and this new ARF law is already in effect.

The PARF (Preferential Additional Registration Fee) rebate has also seen some change, and existing car owners can only get up to a maximum of S$60,000 with the new rules. This may or not be a huge factor to you, as in the past, you could get back up to 75 per cent of the vehicle’s PARF if you de-registered your vehicle within five years.

The biggest hitters will be the luxury car market, where most of their stock (even the base products) has an OMV of at least S$30,000. While you won’t see much of a change for a new 2 series, prepare to stomach a lot more for that gleaming 7 series at the back.

For example, if you were to walk in and purchase a Ferrari now, you would have to pay an additional 100% ARF tax, as the car’s OMV exceeds SGD$ 80,000. This translates to roughly another SGD$ 300-450k out of your precious bank account.

Would this shun people away from the ultra-luxury segment of the market? Perhaps, but to some of these owners, forking out another 200k or so isn’t something that is detrimental for them. Singapore has also seen a record number of luxury car sales in recent years, and that trend is set to only head skywards.

The best piece of advice we can give at this point is to prepare your wallets.

Catch the latest news right here on AutoApp!

Škoda is expanding its RS family to include another EV model. It’s (creatively) dubbed the Enyaq iV RS, and just like its coupe sibling, the Czech carmaker has opted for a dual motor all-wheel drive setup with a total power output of 220 kW (299 PS) and 460 Nm of instant torque.

Interestingly enough, this makes both RS versions of the Enyaq iV family the most powerful models currently in Škoda’s lineup.

Sporty Goodness

In true Skoda RS fashion, the Enyaq RS has been bestowed RS-specific design elements, including large 20 or 21-inch alloy rims. Sports suspension drops the overall height by 15mm, giving it a more aggressive stance. Other RS-specific trinkets include gloss black finishes on various parts of the car. Skoda’s ‘Crystal Face’ grille makes yet another appearance, consisting of 131 LEDs embedded into the grille, flanked by Matrix LED headlights.

In case you want everyone to know you’re driving the top rung of the Skoda family, RS badges are generously adorned all over the car. To top it off, an RS-exclusive Mamba Green colour will also be offered.

The RS goodies continue on the inside, with dashboard and door trims covered in a carbon-fibre look, complementing aluminium pedals. Suede microfibre sports seats come as standard and feature an embroidered RS logo. Owners are also given a leather-wrapped steering wheel, an upgrade exclusive to the RS-trim model.

With technology being the main focus of the new model, Škoda assures that the Enyaq’s software will always be up to date thanks to a permanent online connection via an integrated eSIM, allowing drivers to download updates over the air. The Internet connection can support numerous functions too, including remote controls for battery charging, and real-time traffic updates.

Besides its sporty look and dynamic handling, the Enyaq RS offers a generous amount of space for up to five people. 585 litres of boot space are available, which can be expanded up to 1,710 litres by folding down the rear seats.

RS Blood

The Škoda Enyaq iV RS is based on the Volkswagen Group’s Modular Electrification (MEB) platform. Benefitting from a dual motor all-wheel drive system, the car churns out 220 kW and a 460Nm of torque. Boasting a decent top speed of 180 km/h, it is 20 km/h faster than regular ENYAQ iV models and can clock the century sprint in 6.5 seconds.

Its 82 kWh battery, high energy efficiency and drag coefficient of 0.265 give the model a maximum range of over 500 kilometres (WLTP). Thanks to a maximum charging power of 135 kW, the ENYAQ RS’s lithium-ion high-voltage battery can be charged from 10% to 80% in just 36 minutes at fast-charging stations.

A new function, dubbed ‘Plug & Charge’, makes charging seamless at suitable charging points stored in the Skoda PowerPass app. An owner would just need to connect the charging cable, and the vehicle is automatically identified at the charging point. The subsequent charging session is then billed automatically.

The model has seen major success in Europe since its inception in 2021. Hopefully, we will be able to catch a glimpse of this on our roads very soon.

If you’re looking to service your car, try AutoApp today! Our mobile application connects you to a multitude of reputable workshops and specialists, providing you with the best car for your car.

It seems like only yesterday when electric vehicles (EVs) first hit the market. Now, with more countries and individuals touting electrification as “the future”, automotive manufacturers are pushing out new EVs by the dozen. Not wanting to miss out on a big share of the EV pie, Mercedes has also ramped up development and is going all in on their new electric EQ lineup.

With the EQA and EQC already on the market, effectively electric copies of their popular ICE counterparts, it was only a matter of time before Mercedes turned their attention to the GLB. Sure enough, the EQB was born.

Does it live up to the perceived high standards of the German three-pointed star? Let’s find out.

Electrifying silent drive

While its GLB sibling has to make do with a 1.3-litre petrol engine shared with Renault and Nissan, which was known to be quite boisterous and unrefined, the EQB leaves it in the dust with its newfound electric powers.

Even in its EQB250 guise with just a single front-mounted motor, 140kW (188bhp) and 385 Nm of torque is still plenty to get it briskly off the line. At full chat, the EQB can complete the century sprint in 8.9 seconds. Not too shabby for a single-motor 7-seater. Parking is a simple affair in this thing too, with good all-around visibility and a myriad of sensors to detect any speck of dust you would run into.

One thing I will commend the EQB for is its ride quality. Being a family-centric car, the EQB has pretty soft suspension, MacPhersons in the front and multi-link out back, which cushion out bumps and kinks in the road well. Plus, having the advantage of being an EV meant the ride was virtually silent, and without unnecessary vibrations.

Like most EVs on the market, the EQB is fuss-free when you’re going about your daily chores. It’s a relaxing car to cover long distances in (as long as it stays in Singapore), and a fully juiced battery should provide you with about 350km of range. In my time with the car, I averaged about 19.3kWh/100km, and that’s without eco-friendly pedal discipline.

Of course, this isn’t a car you would want to tear up B-roads in. But, being a little more enthusiastic in the corners, the EQB still held its composure well unlike other Mercedes EQ models such as the EQC. This is partially thanks to all that battery weight being low down under the floor, resulting in a lower centre of gravity. 

As long as you’re not hyping yourself up to be the next Micheal Schumacher on the roads, the EQB does well in delivering a dignified and relaxing drive.

Shockingly comfortable on the inside

While it is tamer in performance compared to other EVs on the market, the EQB has two major advantages going for it, and that is comfort and space. This is the first EV in Singapore with room for 7 in the cabin. So not only is the EQB able to carry your entire family nucleus around, but it also does so in silent comfort, with a ride quality befitting of the three-pointed star badge. 

Young ones will be sufficiently entertained for long journeys, thanks to the abundance of charging ports located throughout the cabin. Even 3rd-row passengers get their own ports and small cubby holes to store hand-held items, a big upgrade in in-flight amenities compared to other 7-seater models where last-row occupants are essentially exiled from the rest of the cabin. 

Up front, most of the creature comforts are similar to what you get in the GLB. Twin digital displays dominate the dashboard, both 10.25-inches in size.

Mercedes’ infotainment system is decent enough to use, but the scroll menus may be quite a hassle to navigate whilst driving, especially if you rely on the haptic buttons on the steering wheel. Those things are just cumbersome to use.

Turn the car on at night, and a smorgasbord of LEDs light up to greet you. While it can entertain your passengers, my hot take is that these LEDs actually make the car look less premium, looking like the aftermath of a modding trip with our Malaysian neighbours.

Aside from the flashy LEDs, there’s really not much to complain about in the interior of the EQB. It’s practical enough for the family, and the posh blend of materials will impress your co-workers at the office.

Sleek, ae-static styling

Following the rest of the Mercedes EQ lineup, the EQB’s exterior resembles a GLB which dressed up with way too much hair wax. The entire body looks very slippery with no indentations, probably to give the car as low of a drag coefficient as possible.

Up front, the traditional radiator grille has been replaced with a posh black panel with chrome details. The head and taillamps of the car are also new, with EQ-specific LED light strips. 18-inch alloys are standard on the car, but you can always spring for the AMG-line option to spec your EQB out with fancier body panels and AMG-specific 18-inch rims. However, with the EQB 250 you wouldn’t be able to get the 20-inch big boy tyres, as those are only reserved for the more powerful 350 4Matic. Talk about jealousy.

Unlike the rest of the EQ SUV range, the EQB has a tall and squarish roofline, much like the GLB. It isn’t the best looking, but it provides passengers with tons of headroom in the cabin. 

Don’t get me wrong, I don’t hate the look of the EQB. But I’m also not someone who would take a second glance at the car. There’s really not much going on. Granted, its design is functional, but I would have loved to see at least some distinguishing features between it and the GLB. Unless they’re put side by side, most people wouldn’t be able to tell one from the other.

Sparking a new segment for the EV market

The EQB does tick a lot of boxes. It’s the first relatively attainable EV 7-seater in the mainstream market that doesn’t come in the shape of a van. It has relatively brisk performance, drives tidily and has loads of space to boot. 

If you just can’t wait to ferry your kids around in smug, efficient silence, it’s a safe bet. But before you rush down and place a deposit, it might be worth considering what your needs are in a car. If your family nucleus is small and you want something a bit more punchy, then the smaller EQA may be a more enticing prospect, and you save some cash doing so too.

But, if you’re someone who wants a practical boot, comfortable drive, and the added benefit of ferrying 7 passengers when the need arises, then the EQB may be a compelling EV option.

Technical Specifications

Mercedes-Benz EQB
Battery Capacity: 66.5kWh
Drive: Front wheels
Power: 188hp
Torque: 385Nm
0-100km/h: 8.9 seconds (claimed)
Fuel Economy: 16.4kWh/100km or 6.1km/kWh (claimed)
Price: $320,888 (Progressive), $328,888 (Electric Art), both with COE (accurate at the time of this article)
Contact: Mercedes-Benz Singapore

If you like EVs, why not check out the Mercedes-Benz EQV here!